SLOVENIA: POSTOJNA & OUR CHANGING JOURNEY

There comes a time on every long trip when we tire of moving around every few days.  It used to take months before that happened, but this time it came after we had time in only two countries.  Plus, we both have fierce head and chest colds.  So we are not giving Slovenia its due.  

The map below shows our original plans, and the red line through a place means we didn't go there.  The green circles indicate places we did get to, or will soon be heading to.  In a way, it's sad, but on the other hand, we are happy with the decision to slow down.  We are giving ourselves a treat of twelve days in a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea, followed by just a few more days of travel, then home.

So, now we are in Postojna, and we basically spend it in bed, trying to recover from this illness.  We have no energy to do anything and don't want to expose others to our cold germs, so we lie low.

The reason people come here is to see the famous Postojna caves and castle.  There's not much else here.

After this, we will be heading to the seaside.  

The journey to get here was pretty weird.  We had to go from Bohinsjka Bistrica back down to Ljubljana by bus, then transfer to the bus that would take us to Postojna.  The first part of the journey went fine.  Once we got to Ljubljana we could not believe the traffic.  I guess we are insulated from this by mostly staying in Old Towns that are usually pedestrian only, or taking city buses away from the center.  And when someone else is driving like bus or train, traffic is really not an issue.

Traffic was backed up for miles and miles.  Our bus driver appears to have made the decision to leave the main highway and take back roads to Postojna.  The trouble is, he doesn't know the rural roads and gets lost.  Twice.  He stops a bus and a big truck to hop out and ask for directions.  The traffic is pretty heavy on the back roads, too.  The supposed 70-minute journey took two and a half hours; however, I think he did get us there sooner than if he had stayed on the main highway.

We spoke to another driver about it, and he told a similar story to what we heard in Romania. He felt that when the communists were in power, they invested a lot in infrastructure. They have been out of power now for forty years, and there's a belief that no money has been spent on roads and other kinds of infrastructure since.  

It's recognized that some sort of settlement existed in Paleolithic times, where Postojna now stands.  As a town, it was first referred to in the 13th century.  It became a borough in 1432, and a town in 1909.

The Tourist Info Center has a booklet called "Follow the Town Trail", so we did this on our last day there.  Below is an assortment of highlights from that 'trail', which we tried to capture:

We were sent to the lovely little Church of St. Lazarus.

What the town wanted us to see was the tomb of Fran Jurca's Family, a wealthy and important family in the development of the town.  One has to make prior arrangements to get inside the tomb, which, according to the booklet, has a ceiling painting of the Virgin Mary with a dead Jesus, as well as full-body sculptures of Mr. Jurca's wife and son.  In 2006 the Municipality of Postojna restored the tomb in consultation with historians and the family heirs. The restoration was completed in 2016.

There were other impressive tombs near the one of the Jurca family.  The one below intrigued us the most.  Was this for a firefighter, a miner, logger?

The building below was built in 1900 and is known as the Miroslav Vilhar Primary School.  This man who was a Slovenian composer, poet, playwright, politician and publisher of a political newspaper, advocated for the rights of Slovenians during the Austro-Hungarian Empire rule.

The twin towers of the Church of St. Stephen (built 1777) are seen from most places in town.  St. Stephen was the patron saint of horses.  This pays homage to the economic importance of Draught horses in the area when transportation by horse-drawn carts was the norm.

Just a few photos from the inside of the church.

Between 1950 and the late 1980's a new maternity hospital was being built, so women gave birth in the building below.  No visitors were allowed in, so friends and relatives would stand on the road above the building to wave to the new moms standing in the windows with their newborns.

The booklet had twenty-six stops of interest, but the ones above were the most interesting to us.

We are excited to be going to the Slovenian Istria peninsula, and our seaside vacation.

SLOVENIA: BOHINJSKA BISTRICA, VILLAGE in the JULIAN ALPS

The bus ride from Ljubljana to here was less than two hours, and all went smoothly.

Our jaws dropped when we saw the place we would be staying in.  The owner bought this home and recently renovated it into five apartments, and he did a fabulous job with quality materials, fixtures, furniture and appliances.  The kitchen is as stocked as mine at home.  It’s too nice to rent out.  Wow.  The small balcony is a very welcome feature.  There are also a couple of shared outdoor spaces.  The photos below are from the ad for their listing.

In the first photo, the wood cutout of the mountain range that the TV is attached to is a few inches off the wall so that lighting can fit behind it.  It looks like he took the shape right from a silhouette of the mountains here.  It's beautiful in the evening.

It was about a fifteen-minute walk from the bus station to the accommodation with what seems like increasingly heavier packs, so I am a bit red in the face, sweaty and thirsty.  The owner pops across the street to his home and brings us two cold beers.  Then he goes home a few minutes later, as his wife is just bringing a homemade strudel out of the oven, and she has cut off four pieces for us.  But kindness doesn’t end there.  Later, he brings us a bottle of homemade elderberry syrup that can be mixed with water or sparkling water, and the following day, he gives us a bottle of wine.

Our initial plan was to settle in Bohinjska Bistrica for three days, one of which would be a day trip to Bled/Lake Bled (a half-hour bus ride away).  But we had to go through Lake Bled to get to Bohinjska and decided right then to avoid it altogether.  It looked very picturesque with the nice beach, the church on the island in the middle of the lake, the castle on cliffs high above the lake, the pretty little rowboats for rent, and the traditional wooden pletnas that can be hired with a captain, but it was swarming with people.  Perhaps in April or October, it would be a nice place to be.  Just Google: Lake Bled images and see how lovely it is.

Bohinjska Bistrica has a population of 1,800 people, but looking around, it seems that there must be as many rooms to let as there are people in town.  It's pretty easy to get around town on foot from our accommodation.  There are a couple of supermarkets and several restaurants to choose from.  Below are photos of the village park.

This is an area for outdoorsy people, the essence of Slovenia.  There’s road and mountain bicycling, hiking, mountaineering, camping, kayaking, rafting, sailing and canoeing, fishing, and swimming.  In the winter, there is bus service to two nearby ski resorts.

This is a good time to talk about the name Bohinjska Bistrica.  Bistrica is applied to places that have streams, creeks or rivers running through them.  Two different tributaries run through town and into the Bohinjka River.  The name literally means Bistrica in the Bohinj region.

And a couple of photos of the Bohinjka River:

It is on the edge of Triglav National Park and the start of the Bohinj Valley.  The yearly Spring Garden Festival has guided walks through meadows filled with wildflowers, and the summer closes with a ‘Cow Ball’ with decorated cows.

The owner lends us two quite decent bicycles so that we can do the eleven km out to Lake Bohinj.

The bike path is paved all the way.

The bike ride to the lake follows the river all the way.  One or two very small sawmills are in back yards. 

Both in urban and rural areas, individuals possess substantial quantities of wood.   Winter must be something here.  Note how long the wood is and how slender.  

Yet, we also notice how on the bus ride here and looking out over the mountains, there is zero evidence of logging.  They must have very sustainable logging practices.

On a hill near Lake Bohinj, the tall tower of the 700-year-old St. John the Baptist church is visible from afar.  We don't head to the church, but it's described on the St. John the Baptist website, thus: "The impressive frescoes on the outside keep travellers safe, while inside they enigmatically challenge art historians and visitors alike, as these Gothic paintings are full of mysteries that are open to interpretation."

We are in awe of how crystal clear the river is, but soon learn that there is no swimming in Lake Bohinj now due to high levels of E. coli.  As you can see from the photos below, it's quite a busy area, although quieter than Lake Bled.

 We get off the bikes at one point to say hello to some milking cows who seem very interested in us.  Each wears a cowbell and seems more like a pet than a farm animal.  They love their pats and scratches, and you have to move fast to avoid their big tongue kisses.

The ride also includes a covered bridge.

Out in the country, and even in town, many people have quite large mixed vegetable gardens.

This one place has homemade yogurt, cheese and a variety of other produce for sale.  We loved their window boxes right on the trail, filled with strawberries instead of flowers.

On another day, we walk to Brod, a village so small that it has no cafe and no market.

A bridge is the entry to Brod, and at the end is a wayside shrine.

Two teachers have their elementary school students out by the river, examining things in nature, we assume for a science class.

We have enjoyed our brief stay in this tranquil place.  It's far enough away from the tourist spots of both Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj that it's relaxing and close enough to nature, flowing water and towering mountains to take a deep breath and feel gratitude for all that is.

SLOVENIA - LJUBLJANA: THE DRAGON CITY

So much for experienced travellers, this time, chaos seemed built into the journey from Timisoara to Ljubljana.

Perhaps our 3 am awakening to get to the airport in Timisoara didn't help, along with the anxiety of 'will the driver show up ?' at that hour, then having no prearranged transportation into Lubljana (about 24 km from that airport). The SIM card provider we wanted was supposed to be at the airport, but wasn't.  Arg!

As the day went on, everything gradually came together, including stocking the fridge with groceries for the next five days.

We have now entered the country of Slovenia.  Today, it is renowned for its natural beauty, outdoor activities, commitment to the environment and to sustainability.

In the 6th. Century various tribes migrated here.  It has been part of the Roman Empire, the Holy Roman Empire and the Habsburg Monarchy, before becoming part of Yugoslavia and communist rule.  In 1991, Slovenia declared its independence and is now a member of the EU and NATO.

The flag's colours are from the coat of arms of the Duchy of Carnolia, an area within the Habsburg monarchy with many Slovenes. The Mountain is Mount Triglav, Slovenia's highest mountain, and the wavy blue lines represent the sea and the rivers.  Finally, the three six-pointed stars arranged in a triangle are from the coat of arms of the Counts of Celjie, another powerful family that influenced the Slovenians.

We have been moving pretty steadily for about two months and are tired of that, so we have deleted several stops from our schedule and are staying longer at fewer places.  It feels like a good decision.

Evening finds us heading to Tivoli Park, about 3 blocks from our accommodation.  Tivoli has everything you want in outdoor recreation. There are many paths for walking & cycling, an aquatic center, water park, boxing gym, tennis and pickle ball courts, loads of space to kick and throw balls, play frisbee &/or frisbee golf, tight rope walk - yes!, walk the dog or play badminton.  There are cultural spaces like Tivoli Castle, which houses the International Center for Graphic Arts and the Cekin Mansion, which houses the museum of Slovenian contemporary history, a rose garden, lovely sculptures throughout, numerous ponds, secluded benches under ancient trees where lovers can cuddle in private, and so much more. Judging by numbers and activities, locals of all ages love this park, and while many people are here, it feels uncrowded.

From the moment we step out of our accommodation, we realize how carefully we need to mind the bicycle path, often separated from the sidewalk by only a line of paint.  A lot of people here of all ages cycle, plus quiet electric scooters of all kinds ride the bike path. It's so easy to walk into their path when getting off a city bus or crossing the street.  And they all ride like they are in a race.  We respect the number of people who cycle here and haven't seen so many since Copenhagen and Amsterdam.

There was an interesting display on the Jakopič Promenade, a wide boulevard that leads up to Tivoli Castle.  It is the submissions for his year's (the 36th) biennial exhibition of contemporary graphic arts.

The Biennale is known for pushing artistic boundaries, and this year's theme explores the intersection of art, intuition, and storytelling. The artists have quotes for each of their works, which obviously have a connection for them.     

SOME of the SUBMISSIONS on DISPLAY

Leading up to the Castle & Castle Grounds

The owner of this dog was not close by, and the dog was leaping about in the pond, all by itself, having a grand time.

So tired after a busy day.

Day 2 in Ljubljana finds us wandering the streets of the Old Town and taking a boat ride on the Ljubljanica River in a lovely wooden boat.

The boat travels under several bridges.  The one we especially want to walk to after the boat ride is The Dragon Bridge, as the dragon is the protector of Ljubljana, who provides not only strength, courage and might, but wisdom.  The story of Jason and the Argonauts, who slayed the dragon, is easily found on the internet.

Like any mascot, he appears here and there on signs, in name and promotional material. One example:

One bridge that links Old Town to Preseren Square, in the 1930's became three bridges thanks to the genious of Joze Plecnik.  The Triple Bridges is on the UNESCO World Heritage site.

It's impossible to capture the uniqueness of this structure by walking it with a regular camera.  Go here to see photos taken by professionals.

Also, on the above webpage, scroll down to see spectacular day and night photos of the pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation.

Paul's photo captures it quite well.

Another notable bridge is the 'Shoemakers, or Cobblers Bridge'.  The original bridge was covered with wood, which provided space for the workshops of shoemakers.

Butcher's Bridge or the Lover's Bridge is situated over what used to be the butcher shops.  It connects the central market with the embankment.  Today lovers put a lock on the bridge and throw the key into the river below.

Below is just one half of the central market; the other half is just as big.  Today, there are more eateries than markets, but it's still worthwhile to have a look.

The people in these apartments on the river, must love where they are.

With no solid plans, one day became an eclectic collection of diverse activities.

The morning started out with a visit to the botanical gardens. Established in 1810, it's the oldest, continuously operating society in Slovenia, collaborating with over 270 botanical gardens worldwide in scientific research and education, and plays a critical role in growing and protecting Slovenia's endemic, endangered, and/or vulnerable/rare species.

A quiet coffee break down by the river, then a walk through an African festival that is starting to set up for the weekend.

Then it's a city bus ride to Metalkova Mesto, which started out as one of the biggest urban squats in Europe in the old barracks of the Yugoslavian army. 

In 1995, it was regulated as an autonomous social and cultural center. The city tried to reach an agreement with the squatters/residents to leave the buildings but retain the functions of art and music.  Something in between has happened.  In 2005, it was designated a cultural heritage site and plays a leading role in underground art and music in the country, but people still live there.  It was quiet when we visited midday, but it is said to be quite a happening place on the weekends.

Back to the old town for a wander and to sit by the river watching family fun races, in a variety of watercraft (including SUPs).   It seemed that the goal of having fun was more significant than winning.

Then we happened upon a free and excellent jazz concert in Congress Square.

Dinner at a Chinese restaurant right beside our accommodation was delicious, and a rarity for us.  We have no access to this quality of cooking where we currently live.

There are many interesting shops in Old Town Ljubljana.  This one resonated with Paul.  It was a print shop doing it the old way, where every letter was on a metal plate, then had to be put in order, ink applied, and the printing done.  Paul did this in his trophy and award business, mostly to print ribbons with words on them.  Not many people do this today.

This shop changed it's window display every day.  It is hard to see in the photos, but each one of these is a real purse.

One of our favourite days was a visit to the Slovene Ethnographic Museum.  It has two permanent exhibitions that are advertised this way: 

"Between Nature and Culture" - This exhibition showcases the museum's vast collection of over 3,000 objects representing both Slovenian and non-European ethnographic heritage, focusing on the everyday and festive aspects of life. 

"I, We and Others: Images of my World" - This exhibition delves into the human experience, exploring personal, communal, and universal heritage through various themes and interactive elements

My favourite exhibit was on human perception of time.  I had never thought of the concept of time in so many ways and relationships.  Again, here is how the museum describes the exhibit.

Another fascinating exhibition was called 'Asia in the heart of Ljubljana'.  This is the largest collection of objects from Asia in Slovenia.  The collection was started by an officer who had been held prisoner in China about a hundred years ago.  He later married a Japanese woman, and their collection expanded.

Some of the pieces were truly remarkable.

The item below is a skull drum from the Himalayan tantric traditional ritual of transcending the limitations of self.  Two decapitated skulls of a young man and a young woman, turned opposite each other, make up the drum.  The drum symbolizes the sexual union with the tantric emphasis on the unity of two and also symbolizes wisdom.

I think the items below were from the ethnographic heritage exhibition.  It struck a chord as we have seen similar costumes in other countries.  What we remember is that this is about the celebration of spring, awakening the light and the earth, with dancing and the cowbells.  The similarities between cultures is so interesting.

Beekeeping of the native Carnolian bee was an integral part of life in Slovenia in the 19th century.  Co-author of this display, Barbara Sosic says that: "Beekeeping is the poetry of agriculture."

The display included bee hives unique to Slovenia that have been used for thousands of years.  A special honey bread, often made for special occasions and the art of the candle-maker.

MISCELLANEOUS FROM ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

After spending hours here, we head to the reasonably priced cafe for lunch.

On another day, we go to Ljubljana Castle as it has towered above us the whole time, and it seems like the thing to do.  We take the funicular up and walk down.

We realize that this is a very sanitized castle, meant for tourists and families.  Very disappointing and fairly expensive.  There's a gift shop and two restaurants.

We climb to the top of this tower.

While up there, these costumed gentlemen come up with their bugles.  People on the ground can hear them and are searching for them.

The first photo below is the view of Old Town from this tower, and the second is a view of the castle courtyard below.

There is a display of puppets, which were used in olden days to educate children, perhaps provide commentary or poke fun at those in power and to tell stories.

RANDOM PHOTOS FROM THE CASTLE

While other cities have a cafe culture, Ljubljana has a beer culture.  Four thousand years ago, Slovenians were drinking a beer-like beverage.  The biggest brewery is Lasko.

Every day we walk past Union Brewery, established in 1864, then became a part of the Heineken family in 2015.  We muse about going on their tour and decide not to.

Note the dragon as part of the logo.

We also pass by this modern fountain often.

This is my favourite garbage can in the Old Town.

In our neighbourhood is an interesting piece of street art that we forward on to one of our street artist friends.

This is St Bartholomew's Church, one of the oldest in Ljubljana.  It is famous because a treaty was signed here wherein the Habsburgs returned Trieste to Venice.

MISCELLANEOUS FROM LJUBLJANA

As always we need to leave you with photos of a few nice buildings in Old Town.

Church doors in old town

Ziga Zois was a nobleman, entrepreneur, natural scientist and patron of the arts.  His ideas were influential in the Enlightenment era.

Ljubljana is a wonderful city with so much to see and do.  It's very walkable and a very worthwhile visit.

We are headed now to the Julian Alps area of Slovenia.  

Until next time ...