A two-hour bus ride from Brasov brings us to Sibiu, population 134,000
EYES YOU SAY?
The story of the eyes is the story of Sibiu.
Sibiu's history began very early in Roman times, but this story focuses on a later time.
There are conflicting accounts of when the Saxons settled Sibiu; most agree sometime between the Twelfth and Fourteenth centuries. Proof lies in the remains of medieval walls and towers still visible today and the strong influence of Germanic architecture.
The Saxons were successful merchants and traders, soon turning Sibiu (which they had named Hermannsdorf) into a town so wealthy that fortifications needed to be built.
The first circle of protection was around the church, which was large enough for all the citizens to gather in the event of a strike against them. Three more circles were built after that, each expanding the protected area for wealthy and poor alike. When a Guru Guide leader pointed that out it was very evident to see.
As Claude and I were chatting, he drew this up for me with permission to share it.
Part of the success of this system was assigning each defensive tower to a tradesman's guild to protect it if needed. In the event of an attack, every man knew where to go.
Merchants and traders would import and export large amounts of products, so storage was needed.
Here is a typical merchant trader's building.
During market days, goods would be on display in the covered area. The family could live on the floor above, and the attic is where supplies were stored.
The Saxons thought of a simple but effective method to keep their stored goods dry while providing air circulation. Dormers on the roof were created, left open but with a protective covering over the top (the eyelid) to keep out rain and snow.
When in the old town, the illusion is that of eyes following you.
No longer needed as a dry storage place, some dormers are now closed in with windows, but the effect remains the same.
So, Sibiu's old town is enclosed by a wall and several towers. One length of wall is intact and bookended by two towers. It's possible to go up into the 'thick tower' to look around outside as the Saxons would have done to spot danger.
On the other side is a river, further providing defence.
Wall from town side.
The tower opened at 11 am the next day, but the ticket-seller told us to come at 11:30 or later to give him a chance to clean up what the birds had left behind.
Sibiu officially became part of Romania in 1918 and is unofficially considered the capital of Transylvania. In 2006, the historic center was renovated, and in 2007, it was awarded the European Capital of Culture recognition
To look over Sibiu, climb the two hundred stairs in St Mary's Lutheran Church to the tower or go to the tower in the Holy Trinity Cathedral. The views illustrate the compactness of the old town.
The tile roof of the church is beautiful.
You get to pass the church bells on the way.
One place, closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, that we did not get to see is the Brukenthal Palace. Baron Brukenthal, Governor of Transylvania, opened his personal collections to the public in 1817. Today it is made up of six museums: art, library, history, pharmacology, natural history, and arms and hunting trophies.
The Brukenthal name comes up again in Sibiu in reference to the Samuel Von Brukenthal National College, with school records dating back to 1380 and still an active school under the state Ministry of Education. All core academic subjects are taught, but in the German language, even though most students today are Romanian, the majority of Germans have moved away some time ago. The fellow who took us on the Guru Guide walk went to school there and speaks four or five different languages.
Sibiu has three squares: Great Square, Small Square and Huet Square.
The Great Square has one of the most beautiful buildings for use by Tourist Information. The front door leads to an immense rotunda, which has one small desk for staff.
Our accommodation is a short walk uphill, then a rather long staircase to the old town. We do it a few times every day.
Eating in Old Town is expensive. We are lucky to have this restaurant in our neighbourhood. Both food and beer or wine are good and inexpensively priced. The waiters are attentive and engaging, and there is a choice of inside or outside dining. It is in a historic building that has been renovated.
A pretty pedestrian bridge, made of cast iron (built in 1859), connects two parts of the old town. Known as Liar's Bridge, it is surrounded by myth and legend. Three of the most popular are:
- That it's a Truth-Telling Bridge, because if you tell a lie while crossing, it will collapse.
- The Merchant Theory - merchants needed to cross the bridge many times a day and would often inflate the value of their goods to persuade potential clients to buy their wares.
- The romantic theory that couples would exchange eternal love for each other or even exchange their vows here, and thus the name, Lover's Bridge.
The bridge is a lovely part of the old town and was the first built in the area to not stand on pillars.
When we were there, a combination of festivals was getting ready for a weekend of fun. The music was electronica (not our favourite, but for a while you can get into the groove of the beat).
The simultaneous festival was of Food Trucks. Well, some trucks sold nothing but wine, or beer and alcohol with snacks. The food was varied and good.
We were able to watch it getting set up in the afternoon.
The area below ended up with cushions within the 'teepees' and became a relaxing place for adults with their kids. There was a whole play area and inflatable climbing and bouncing structures for kids too.
Early evening and people are just starting to come.
Volunteers have finished setting up the 'community table' for Friday evening's meal.
In addition to the electronic/DJ music, there was one live band, and everyone from young to old seemed to be familiar with them. People stood on their chairs, sang every word, rushed up to the stage, clapped, cheered, and generally showed their appreciation.
A large percentage of Romanian youth, women and men smoke, so it's challenging to be in a large gathering even when it's outside.
We were glad to be here for this event. Sibiu is one of our favourite cities in Romania.
As usual, here are some photos of lovely buildings in the old town.
Next up is an eight-hour train ride to Timisoara. When we say this to local people, they groan and say 'You should have taken the bus. ' I guess we'll find out.
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