Our journey in Romania originally extended north, but we changed plans to head to the Danube Delta for reasons revealed in the blog. Either way, it's a three-week exploration.
The Romanian flag has three stripes: Blue represents Liberty, Yellow is for Justice, and Red reminds people of the blood shed for the nation.
The history of Romania goes back thousands of years. More recently, it became a Soviet communist state in 1947, then in December of 1989, there was a violent revolution against the dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu. History tells us that he amassed great personal wealth while in power and during this time, citizens suffered with severe food shortages and rations, rolling blackouts and too little heat in the severe winters. Nicolae and his wife were executed on December 25, 1989. Their personal mansion can be toured today, as can his extravagant Palace of Parliament.
Since the revolution, Romania has joined both NATO and the EU and it has the highest population in southeastern Europe.
Ceaușescu has left a bitter taste in Romania, and while there are some communist parties today, they hold no political influence.
BUCHAREST: 'Little Paris' &/or 'The City of Contrasts'
We had three full days in this busy city, not enough to get an in-depth picture of what it is like for people living here.
Our arrival day was election day for the country, and by the next day, we had heard that a former math teacher, centrist in his politics, had won over a far-right candidate. Attempts to contest his win have now been overturned, so he is in for a five-year term.
What is unmissable in this city is the relentless, congested traffic at all times of the morning, afternoon and evening. It never lets up. Vehicles are bumper to bumper most of the time, and if there is a break in traffic, tires are squealing as people stomp on the gas to get any advantage. Another constant sound is the honking of horns as drivers skillfully change lanes.
We come across a couple of parking lots (that we presume are at places of work ), where no asphalt is visible. Cars look like tightly-fitted puzzle pieces. We have no idea how they parked like that, or more importantly, how anyone leaves.
Fortunately, many large and beautiful parks are car-free. The trees and sound of water from the fountains serve as a peaceful respite from the traffic noise. They also provide some safety for the many bicycle-delivery folks, as there are no bicycle lanes on the streets.
The main part of the city is very walkable for tourists, and Bolt (like Uber) cars are an inexpensive way to get around.
Apparently, people love the nightlife, which we didn't experience, but we strolled the riverfront streets that had nothing but establishments serving food, drinks and music.
Research says that this city is affordable for most people however, we do see a lot of people 'binning', getting refundable bottles from public waste containers and see people panhandling for money.
It's a fascinating city to see the architecture, as there are many styles of old buildings, some are beautifully restored, while others crumble away in abandonment. Some incorporate the new with the old in ingenious ways, like the building below.
Our days looked like this: Day 1, Old Town (Central Vechi), Day 2, The National Museum of the Village of Dimitri Gusti, and Day 3, the Palace of Parliament, Revolution Square, and Umbrella Street.
OLD TOWN BUCHAREST
This is a bustling, lively place with many restaurants, cafes, bars and historical sites to see. We created a list of 'must-sees' and walked Old Town like a grid to get it all in.
On the walk to Old Town from our accommodation, we cross over the river Dambovita, which flows through the city.
Also, whenever we go out, we pass by Urinii Square and its forty-four fountains. The square is the largest in Bucharest and one of the largest in Europe. The Dambovita River runs under it. The square is a major transportation hub for the metro, a bus exchange, a tram terminal and a taxi stand. A large, modern shopping mall flanks one side, and Manuc's Inn is in a far corner.
This is the largest complex of fountains in Europe and one of the most important in the world. Each fountain can be digitally controlled for a spectacular show.
One weekday evening, we sit on a park bench waiting for dark and the fountain show where water and coloured lights dance to music, only to find out later that it is on weekends.
Much has been written about these places on the web, so below is a short sentence for each and our photos.
STAVROPOLEOS MONASTERY
Built in 1724, its name means 'City of the Cross'. It stands out from all other buildings in the area. The inside with old frescoes is beautiful, especially in the main dome, and the courtyard is peaceful. There is an area where old headstones and a gravesite are showcased.
Today, a community of a dozen nuns live and work here. They restore books, clothes and artifacts for the Vatican. Regular worship sessions continue, and a rare choir that sings neo-Byzantine music is also active.
THE NATIONAL BANK of ROMANIA
This building (the Old Palace) was built between 1884 and 1890. Since the 1800s it has served as the headquarters for the National Bank of Romania. This impressive building leaves one with the feeling of great economic stability.
Built in the 16th century, this is the oldest church in Bucharest. The beautiful pattern of bricks and the decorated facade make it worth seeing.
The frescoes, murals, icons and chandeliers inside the church are a marvel.
CARU' CU BERE
This is one of two famous eateries in Old Town. The inside is full, as are the tables out in the street. We can't get near it. It's known for its traditional Romanian food and its own brewery that has used the same unique recipe since 1879. Google images, of course, has many photos of the inside.
MANUC'S INN
We lucked out and got a table at the other famous eatery here. This historic building and restaurant (built in 1898) is the oldest operating hotel in Bucharest. The rooms, food, and dancers are loved by locals and tourists alike.
From the outside, it doesn't look like much.
Inside is enormous, yet cozy.
On warm days, customers are seated in a large outdoor square. We went up to the second floor to look down on the area.
Guests staying at the Inn do not have to fight the crowds for a table. An area on the upstairs balcony is roped off for their private tables.
Later on a shopping street, we see these child mannequins wearing traditional folk costumes that resemble those worn by the folk dancers above.
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM of ROMANIA
This building was closed the day we were there. From the title, you can guess that Romania's history is documented from prehistoric times to the current day.
It was far too large (over 80,000 square feet) to capture it with our camera. Below is a collage of a couple of close-ups
CEC PALACE
This is right across from the National History Museum. Built in the 1700s and later renovated, it's the home of Romania's oldest bank. Romanian royalty has from time to time used this building for special events, such as a birthday and a charity event.
Nicolae Ceaușescu's Spring Palace
We chose to not go into this den of opulence under a dictator who made his own people suffer so much. This was the family home. Tours are available and fairly expensive. You can see inside and out on the internet.
MACCA-VILLACROSSE PASSAGE
The major commercial street in Bucharest is Victorei Street. The city decided to link it to Old Town. This was done via a passage that linked two streets through the exit of another street.
The result is this relatively quiet place to sit for a drink or bite to eat. Many locals on foot obviously use it as a passage.
RANDOM PHOTOS FROM OLD TOWN
There is so much more to Old Town that there is no room to document here.
The last time we saw anything this clever was when our photo on Calle Five in Playa del Carmen was put on a tequila bottle.
We have moved on to Constanta. The next post will cover days two and three in Bucharest.
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