Back to the train station in Khiva to head out to Bukhara. Another beautiful ceiling.
The train journey departs at 4 pm and arrives shortly after 9 pm.
This time we were in a 4-bed berth that an elderly gentleman (Mohammed) from Anderjan also booked. He was so kind to share his tea and bread with us along the way. The only English words he had were what he gained on the train: Linda and Paul.
His broad smile brought glitter to our birth. Like many adults here, Mohammed had most of his teeth capped with gold. We haven't seen any dental offices in the almost three weeks that we've been here.
At one point, he called his grandson in Margilon, who speaks English. He told his grandson all the things he wanted to know about us, then handed the phone to Paul, and then the grandson passed the information to his grandfather. Before saying goodbye, the grandson invited us to his home in Margilon for tea and Plov, but we had already been to Margilon.
The train was very hot; only the first-class car had A/C that cooled down the car. We thought our trip was long, but our friend would be spending the night on the train and a considerable part of the next day.
Once again, we are grateful for the YandexGo app on the phone. As soon as we landed at the train station, a taxi was summoned and would be waiting for us by the time we walked out to the parking lot. It also allows us to escape the hordes of drivers vying for new passengers. All we do is hold up the phone, and they say, "Oh, Yandex," and move on to the next person. Finally, I hear a driver trying to convince someone that USD 10 is a special price just for them (UZS 129,080), while our Yandex driver quoted us a price of UZS 23,000.
The Booking app, on the other hand, let us down for the second time. We arrived at a hotel booked a month ago only to be told that there was no room in his establishment. He did help us find another hotel, but it was a downgrade from the original booking.
Bukhara, like Khiva, was important to the Silk Road trade route; both have well-preserved architecture worth seeing, and experienced riches, then decline, and now, with the world discovering the history and beauty, are rebounding again.
Bukhara had more political importance in its day and was continuously inhabited, while Khiva experienced periods of abandonment.
For visitors, Khiva was easier to see since a small area was defined within closed walls, whereas Bukhara is more spread out with grand squares and old trading halls now full of the work of artists and artisans. Bukhara has more accommodation options near or in the Old City as well as dining, shopping and entertainment. Each is worth a visit.
WHEW - the temperature is up to 40 degrees. Sightseeing in the daytime is tiring, and we returned to the hotel on more than one day to have a siesta. Wandering around in the evening is lovely.
The one good thing about the 'new' accommodation is that it is just a fifteen-minute walk to Old Town. The streets here are more like narrow alleys, and little motorized tuk-tuks whiz by transporting locals and tourists alike. It also has an outdoor deck that presents us with this skyline of Old Town off in the distance.
There was also a great restaurant close by with good food, service and prices. One could eat inside with A/C or outside on the patio with misters. This was our first taste of wine from the region. The white seems to be mostly Chardonnay.
Examples of exports included textiles, especially silk and cotton goods, carpets and rugs, gold and silver work, Karakul sheep wool and pelts, leather goods and crafts, dried fruit, nuts, spices, weapons and armour and the highly prized Bukharian horses.
Imports that Bukhara traded for included Chinese silk, porcelain, paper and tea, spices, ivory and precious stones from India; glass from the Mediterranean region; perfumes from the Middle East; corals and pearls from the Indian Ocean and metal products from various regions.
Here are a few of the artifacts that caught our eye.
The beautiful stitching on these boots
Also on the roof is the remains of a building, thought to have been a mausoleum.
A favourite restaurant for lunch was the Chayxana Xo'ja Nasriddin, as long as you timed it between the tours from France and Italy that came there regularly. The spring salad was delicious with the refreshing fresh dill in it. The inside walls of the restaurant are painted with murals. Because there were always so many people seated, it was hard to get photos.
Another important landmark to visit is the Poi Kalyn Complex ('Foot of the Great') with the lovely Kalyan minaret and Mosque as well as the Miri Arab Madrasah.
One of Paul's favourites was the shop of this Pichokchi (knife-maker). Several regions in Uzbekistan produced master knifemakers, but Bukhara is the center of the craft. These tools, known as Damascus knives and swords, are made of titanium alloy and never require sharpening. They are of such quality that they are on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage and are considered a national work of art. It takes about 120 hours of work by two crafters, one who works the metal and the other to chops the blade.
Other prized tools forged by these craftsmen include medical instruments and sewing accessories.
The master at work, then I have a go at it after his patient teaching.
Calligraphy is an ancient art form in Central Asia. We see it on the tiles of many buildings, especially on mosques and mausoleums. This young woman does artwork and incorporates calligraphy into the pictures. To me, the piece she was working on looked like an illustration of a Whirling Dervish however, she showed us the calligraphy in the 'skirt' of the dancer. She learned the skill from her father.
Another trade was that of the artist who creates decorative objects by painting on brass.
There are trades that I missed. Many women sew products they sell and do embroidery. We spoke with one woman who teaches the craft. It can take her a month to complete one piece of needlework. You've already seen photos of the rug and silk weavers at work in Margilon.
In the center of Old Town, another welcome reprieve from the heat, is Lyabi Hauz, a lovely square with two different madrassas bordering it, a small park, and a shaded pond with a restaurant around it. The swans drifting along in the water, the sound of the fountain and the beauty of the nearby buildings create a relaxing atmosphere. Both locals and tourists come here in the evening to stroll, have an ice cream or entertain their children.
The small park has one of the most joyful statues we have ever seen. It is that of Khoja Nasreddin. He is a beloved hero for his personal characteristics. He led a simple life, yet embodied wisdom, experience, naivety, and an ability to enjoy life. Occasionally, his stories were known to (subtly) ridicule greedy rulers, hypocrites, cowards and bribe-takers.
Walking along one day, we hear music. And there on the sidewalk was an old stereo playing a 78. When was the last time you saw one of these?
One day, we come across a huge archeological dig right in Old Town. Information about it here reveals that it is in its fifth year of excavation by an international team, and it has revealed much more than was known before about some of the ancient history of Bukhara.
Time passed quickly in Bukhara, and soon we were on our way to Samarkand. We ran into the woman from Germany whom we first met in the Fergana Valley. She was on her way to Khiva after Bukhara.
It was even too hot for the cats in Bukhara.
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