COVID-19 PANDEMIC
Like many people in the world in March 2020, we had to pack up our travels quickly and head home when COVID-19 struck. There were outstanding plane tickets to Uzbekistan, Jordan, and Canada that would later require battling airline companies for reimbursement.
Sadly, we left the new house and pet sit in Frome, England that was just starting and had to cancel one in Wales that was for a future date. Due to the uncertainty of the times, Bev and Tim in Britain delayed leaving on their travels until more was known. During this time they hosted us like royalty and we enjoyed every minute of their company. We are 'simpatico'. To this day we remain in touch and hope to return to sit for them in May 2022.
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| Walking Daisey & Dolly with Tim. Not caught on camera: Bev and dog Molly |
It was disappointing, to say the least, that governments throughout the Riveria Maya kept the region open for tourism during this global pandemic with virtually no penalties for either businesses or individuals who broke hygiene or social distancing guidelines. As a result, the area has been primarily in pandemic red or orange all this time. The dollar clearly triumphs over human life.
We do feel very fortunate to be in a warm country where one can get on bicycles or go for walks or swims every day.
While biking and walking are our primary modes of transportation in Tulum, and the collectivos and ADO buses to Playa del Carmen and beyond, public transportation no longer feels safe with COVID rampant, so while never in our Mexico-living plan, car shopping it is. Paul is a great online researcher and finds an almost new Mazda CX5 for sale. It's a beauty and soon becomes ours. The light-coloured interior is a real bonus in this heat and is surprisingly hard to find here.
VOLUNTEERING in TULUM HELPS PASS the TIME
Spending three days helping a non-profit society at a spay and neuter clinic where over 200 cats and dogs have surgery each day is a rewarding experience and one we will repeat whenever it occurs when we are in Tulum.
It's thrilling to discover that Tulum Rotary is willing to provide opportunities for those of us not often present to participate in whatever projects they have going at the time so helping out at the new Tulum recycle center and on another day painting the concrete in a Rotary park in a small Mayan community feels like we're contributing in a small way.
We have a few friends that we feel safe with because like us they limit personal contacts and outings ... and so time passes, with the fantasies of travel never far away.
When we meet it's often at the beautiful public beach in Tulum, lots of fresh air and distancing possible. In winter and spring, the beaches are usually clear of sargassum seaweed. Late spring and summer we don't want to go near the beaches as the smelly seaweed is in the water and piled high on the beaches.
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| Photo Credit: Samantha Martel |
TELCHAC PUERTO
Nine months after the start of the pandemic (November/December 2020) our first getaway is to celebrate the week of my birthday and our wedding anniversary. The choice is a beachfront Airbnb in Telchac Puerto. We load the car up with groceries and wine and are there in no time.
This feels like a real vacation. Nothing to do but walk barefoot on the beach to collect shells or go into town; swim; take out the kayak; swing in hammocks or simply gaze at the sea.
COVID VACCINE
By mid-April of 2021, we have received both doses of our COVID vaccine, before most of our friends and family in Canada have even received their first dose. The disappointment is that we are given the Chinese product SinoVac, recognized by the World Health Organization but by very few countries.
Mexico even provides us with a document that is like an electronic vaccine passport. We have it on paper and on our smartphone so a quick scan of a QR code at any border will prove our vaccine status.
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Below this section are the details of the what, when how of the vaccine received & QR code
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Where we chose to settle (Tulum) has changed incredibly in three years and no longer feels like home and 13 months after the start of the pandemic with two doses of COVID-19 vaccines in arms, we feel a bit braver about careful travel and decide to see more of our adoptive country with a combination of short and longer-term rentals combined with house and pet sitting, while our condo is rented to a lovely couple.
SAN MIGUEL de ALLENDE:
Our first destination is for a petsit in San Miguel de Allende
(SMA) a place we have often spoken of but have never seen. Mirna found us on HouseSit Mexico and thought
we would be a good fit for her English Springer Spaniel, Sofi.
This is being written long after our SMA stay, but suffice it to say that we may return for a longer stint in the future. We are returning at the end of August for two weeks to care for Sofi again.
SMA suits us in almost every way. It’s a small city with a large ex-pat
community. There is lots to do and art
of every kind flourishes here.
Mirna's beautiful villa has a spectacular east-facing distance-view over old San Miguel. In the foreground is space where almost daily, hot air balloons launch at sunrise to float over this historic area.
We have been loaned a side-by-side to run around in. It's great on sunny days, but not built for the rain! Sofi will come in it but she seems a little uncomfortable.
Over several visits, we realize that one of our favourite places is
Fabrica la Aurora, a renovated textile mill that has cafes, restaurants, shops, and galleries. Many pleasant hours are spent here.
We can't think of a single thing to not like about San Miguel. The cost of living here seems higher than in many communities; housing for rent seems slightly more expensive and housing for sale a bit less expensive.
The colonial homes: old, new, and renovated are historic treasures that illuminate neighbourhoods with their colour and design. Even doors and windows have become art.
The public squares and parks (such as Parque Bonito Juarez), the street-art, food stands, and little tiendas make so many neighbourhoods feel like a community.
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| Parque Bonito Juarez |
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| Some of the Many Faces of San Miguel |
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| The Iconic Frida Kahlo |
At the beginning of our month, Linda spends a lot of time with medical and physio appointments due to slipped discs and nerve pain. This is a first. SMA is a tough place for this with its steep hills in Centro and rough, old cobblestone streets. Many days Paul is out walking on his own and I'm grateful that he brings me photos and stories at the end of the day.
Other highlights of our visit to SMA (in no particular order):
La ESQUINA ("the Toy Museum"):
La Esquina, otherwise known as the toy museum is almost more fun for adults than for children as many of the toys are protected and preserved in glass cases. What's especially wonderful is that the museum annually sponsors a toy-making contest so that these skills can flourish. Toys from every region of Mexico are on display, so this place not only puts us in touch with the wonder of a child but is a cultural treasure house.
The hours and hours of work that have gone into the making of toys from every material imaginable simply demonstrates the love and esteem that Mexican people have for their children.
The dolls are very realistically portrayed with none of the airbrushing, makeup, plastic-surgery-looking images seen in western societies. It's so refreshing.
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| Just a few of the Day of the Dead figures in the museum |
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| Fantastical Creatures |
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| A small sample of dolls |
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| Of course, there are many wrestlers and their masks to play with |
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| It must have been a big deal when the circus came to town |
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| So much work into this |
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| The wood coke truck has individually carved & lettered coke bottles in crates |
Otra Cara de Mexico (the "Mask Museum"), the Folk Art Museum & Casa de la Cuesta (B&B):
Visiting Heidi and Bill is a three-in-one experience. First, you book an appointment to join a few people whom Bill will take on a guided tour of his Otra Cara de Mexico (Other Faces of Mexico) mask museum. The 100 peso fee for the experience to be with this researcher, scholar, author, lecturer, and collector is donated to the Casa de Los Angeles Daycare Center. His natural storytelling abilities make the masks in the museum come to life.
Later you will be invited to join Heidi in her Folkart Museum. Heidi is personally engaged with each of the artists she represents and is intimately familiar with the history, culture, and meaning found in art, clothing, everyday and ceremonial objects and helps each visitor come to a deeper understanding of the art and the people. She is a gem.
All of this takes place in their lovingly built B&B known as Casa de la Cuesta (house on a hill) which you can poke around in, to your heart's content. The B&B as you can imagine is overflowing with artwork and masks. This couple and their commitment to supporting the indigenous peoples of Mexico and their art and culture is truly inspiring.
Photos are not allowed in the Mask Museum but go here to see and learn more, maybe even to buy a mask:
Link to the Mask Museum
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| Casa de la Cuesta: View from an upper patio; quiet & public spaces. |
Casa de la Cuesta: Random artwork & displays
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| Casa de la Cuesta: Masks scattered throughout the B&B |
I love the work by this artist in Heidi's gallery but alas we travellers are destined to not be collectors:
El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden & Nature Reserve:
The staff from El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden and Nature Reserve gather cacti and succulents from all over Mexico, most of which are threatened or endangered; engage in research and education as well as environmental reclamation and conservation.
The Dali Lama consecrated El Charco as a zone of peace, a place free of violence, and a place of community gathering and development.
The gift shop sells beautiful products and the cafe sells delicious treats made from cacti.
It's a 15-minute drive from Centro up behind and beyond the Mask Museum. Such a treasure for a city.
Atotonilco:
We do the twenty-minute drive a few times to the little community of Atotonilco (population ~600) to wander the Museo Mexico Lindo Arts and Antiques; the wonderful Nirvana restaurant; and the "Sistine Chapel of Mexico".
Antonio Martinez de Pocasangre dedicated thirty years of his life to painting the interior walls and ceiling of the very fortress-looking
Sanctuary of Jesus Nazareno de Atotonilco. Below are photos of the outside, but you need to go
here to see the painting inside as each of the three times we went, it was closed despite a nun telling us one day that it would be open the next day!
Across the road from the Sanctuary, we had to pull the car over when we saw the gorgeous grounds to Finca La Devocion (the Devotion Farm). Unfortunately, as we entered the gates someone told us we could not go in. Checking the website later it seems to be used primarily for weddings and social events. Perhaps they were preparing for a private event, but it was not obvious from the gates. It would have been wonderful to wander around there.
The Nirvana (Heaven on Earth) Hotel, Restaurant, and Spa is part of a seven-hectare hacienda. The grounds here are stunning. At the restaurant, we had tamarind margaritas and jamaica (hibiscus) flower empanadas as starters. The menu was varied, unique and we each enjoyed our meals.
Click
here for more information.
Museo Mexico Lindo Arts & Antiques:
Before taking the turn off the highway into Atotonilco we see this fantastical-looking place and have to stop. A few hours just melt away!
Their sign perhaps says it all:
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| We Create What You Imagine |
Their
FaceBook page has this self-description:
"It is a free museum in which you can carry out the purchase and sale of antiques that are turned into handmade works of art".
Outside the gates are old vehicles painted up; oxen, horses, and carts crafted of wood and lettered. Inside there are reproductions of buildings that would have been somewhere in Mexico back in the day. There's clearly a wood-working shop with antique furniture in various stages of becoming something else, and all kinds of signs and old boards painted up. So much more, but photos say it better than words.
No salespeople are pressuring you, just friendly artists and craftspeople going about their business, and if you approach them with a question they are more than happy to help.
So many photos ended up on the camera that they've been grouped:
Buildings:
Folk Art
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| If we weren't flying home I'd love to have one of these for the condo in Tulum |
Furniture
Painted Panels and Murals
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| An irreverent version of the Last Supper! |
Miscellaneous
Everywhere in SMA are the now internationally recognized Maria dolls in every size you can imagine. In the early 20th century there was a huge migration of indigenous people to Mexico City. The only work they could find is what they created and sold on the street. The women were easily recognized by their dresses and soon became the victims of harassment and prejudice. They were given a derogatory name: the Maria's.
Then one of Diego Rivera's daughters had an idea to create the Maria dolls to represent the indigenous street vendors. The dolls have a traditional dress, ribbons in their braided hair, and large heads. The City of Mexico decided to support these women to develop their traditional handicrafts and dolls, and for a while bought what the women made.
Today the Maria doll is evolving, for example, incorporating Disney figures. The very large Maria doll in the photo below was in the window of a shop in Centro.
Mojigangas
One day we climb up to Calle San Francisco in Centro to look for the workshop of Hemes Arroyo Guerro. This craftsman and artisan is an expert in the creation and restoration of religious artifacts and saints. But of interest to us is that he is a master in the traditional folk art form Mojigangas.
Mojigangas were brought to Mexico and Latin America by the Spaniards. In Spain, the characters were very staid and traditional, but here were adapted to be more "burlesque" - a farcical exaggeration of humanity.
A Mojiganga made of papier-mache is the head and bust of a figure anywhere from six to eighteen feet tall. The dancer or puppeteer climbs under it, attaches a shoulder harness and his legs and feet become those of the puppet which will be walking/dancing about in a festival or a parade.
For more on Mojigangas
The workshop was closed when we stopped by, but a Mojiganga was hanging around outside the studio.
When walking down a street in Mirna's neighbourhood these two little doggies up on a second-floor balcony can hear us coming and they scramble to stick their heads through a hole to greet us. So cute!
The Public Library of San Miguel:
In 1954, Canadian Helen Wade started a library in her home, especially inviting Mexican children in to look at her magazines. From that humble beginning the library has acquired 57,000+ books in English and in Spanish; puts on workshops, courses, and classes for both children and adults; has cinema nights and live theatre; a gift shop and cafe, and they have donated books to over 350 rural schools.
Wandering through the library was so peaceful, with people relaxing in the cafe and in the center square with books, computers, and various projects. This will become a hang-out if we came for a longer visit. Below are some fun wall murals just outside the children's room.
In one short month, we have barely brushed the surface of San Miguel de Allende and already are in love. Let us count the ways: the fabulous history (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) dating back to the 16th century, which means gorgeous architecture. The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel lit up at night is something we never tire of. The view of the city backdrop with stunning sunrises and sunsets is worth celebrating every day. This city is a cultural melting pot with people from all over the world choosing to live here, especially artists and artisans which means beautiful galleries, great street art, eclectic shops, and creative food. Vineyards and wineries are popping up.
You can be out in the countryside in 15 or 20 minutes hiking, exploring gardens, haciendas, and ranches, and when you are in the city, it's very walkable with parks and plazas strategically placed. The jacaranda trees with the beautiful lilac-coloured flowers are nearing the end of their bloom cycle when we are here, but are still stunning and remind us of so many places in Europe and Asia where it also grows. The bilingual library does great work. The markets both artisanal and food are a delight. Coming from the Riveria Maya we love that there is relatively little humidity and more spring-like temperatures.
LORETO, Baja California Sur
From San Miguel, it's a quick flight to La Paz, BCS where we overnight then jump on a bus for a 5-hour ride to another of Mexico's Magical towns: Loreto.
Our Airbnb is on the far end of town past an estuary which is a known birdwatching location. The room is above the home of a lovely Mexican family who takes us to and from the bus station, bring hot chicken tamales for breakfast on our first day, loan their bicycles and invite us to join them in their garden anytime.
We have the choice of walking to town on streets, or past the estuary, onto beaches, and then the Malecon. Coming home one Sunday there is a market set up on the dirt road across from the estuary. The shrimp are so fresh that they still taste of the sea.
The two beaches in town are lovely and dotted with free palapas. The Malecon is a peaceful stroll for people and sunset watching. A street across from the Malecon leads to a pretty, mostly car-free walkway to the main plaza in town where restaurants, public seating, and little stores flourish, and that comes alive at night with a happening music scene.
There's great performance at Domingos near our Airbnb one night.
Another evening is music at the Plaza in town. Sipping wine, enjoying a shrimp cocktail and the music of singer, songwriter, and guitarist Herson D Laura and drummer Luis Manuel Rivera make for a memorable evening.
Unique covers of American music; lively Mexican music new to us and what we didn't expect to hear, a beautiful Spanish rendition of Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah" by one of several women who stepped up at various times to sing with Herson and Luis.
Herson grew up in a musical family and has been playing guitar since the age of 8. His Yamaha Silent Guitar is intriguing. Herson invited Paul to touch it and his hand went right through! There is no solid body just the wood and frame that you see.
UPDATE AUGUST 2021
We have just learned the sad news that Herson has since died of COVID.
In July 1996 the Mexican government decreed the Bay of Loreto, the islands in the Bay, and some of the surrounding Sea of Cortes as a protected Marine Park.
In 2005 UNESCO conferred World Heritage Status on the park. Many species inhabit these waters with some of the most thrilling being the Blue Whales that can be seen from January to March.
There are several examples of Colonial architecture here and one of the most beautiful buildings is the Mission of Our Lady of Loreto that was founded on October 25, 1697, by the Jesuit Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra.
Loreto feels like a hidden paradise, but in fact, it has a small airport where flights arrive daily from America. Walking beyond the Malecon are many big, fancy waterfront villas, homes, or vacation homes for ex-pats and/or visitors.
We enjoy all this little town has to offer so much that an afternoon is passed going around asking about prices for accommodation over winter and discover that it is really quite expensive to stay here.
We would love more time in Loreto but have a date in La Paz.
LA PAZ, Baja California Sur:
The humidity of the Riveria Maya can become quite tiring so we had long been thinking of an escape to dry desert air. Once accepted for a 2-month house and pet sit in La Paz, we were ready to go.
Everything about this sit changed from the time of our mutual agreement until the arrival, such as a convenient location in town close to the Malecon to a location several miles south of town; from a furnished house to a basically unfurnished house: living room furniture was child-sized wood pallets nailed together, and the kitchen table was a wobbly plastic one with saggy camp chairs for sitting. They had literally been there less than a week, so things were just thrown into cupboards - no cleaning done, so we cleaned from top to bottom.
Sticking it out for two weeks was a challenge that didn't get any better so we advised the owners of our desire to leave if we could find new sitters that they agreed on. Our advertisement was successful and everyone was happy. Once that was resolved all we wanted to do was to get out of town. We even decided to skip our little mini-vacation trip to Todos Santos.
Below are the animals that we were to care for. The fish were well-behaved. The cat had been an outdoor cat but they wanted him inside at the new location so many times a day we had to outwit the escape artist. The dogs had zero behaviour training. We soon learned why only the (big) man of the house walked the dogs as they pulled hard and constantly on-leash and off-leash were super aggressive with any other animals. They were between your legs and underfoot everywhere even if you walked a few steps from where they were. There was no obeying of either Spanish or English words.
Unfortunately, the hassles of the sit and the generally bad experience meant that we saw little of La Paz, and what we did see was coloured negatively by our experience.
We have memories of DIRT. The townhouse was at the edge of desert sand and once or twice a day we would sweep up what seemed like a bucket of sand from the floors on all three levels thanks to the breeze and the two large, unmanageable dogs who had to be walked either in the desert behind the house or at the nearby beach and would not stay outside after their walk. Sand stuck to them like glue until they entered the house of course.
The promised weekly cleaning service never materialized.
The car that we were to use should not have been on the road it was in such poor condition. The first day out we had to fix a flat.
La Paz could be seen off in the distance with a cloud of pollution hanging over it. The pollution is from electrical generation based on crude oil and makes it one of the more polluted cities in all of Mexico.
Every day the empty cruise ships remain anchored in the bay. It seems they wait here now until the season starts again. We hear rumours that the industry is pressuring La Paz to have a pier built to handle ships with 5,000+ passenger capacity.
There is no doubt that the Malecon and the beaches are beautiful. We had hoped to rent bicycles one day to explore the Malecon and beyond. The waterfront promenade is lined with the usual bars, restaurants, hotels, and tacky tourist shops.
Photos below are from the beach south of town where the dogs were walked. These beaches are nice and not many people go there during the week.
The historic part of town has a few merits in architecture, arts and culture, and the plaza. We catch a show of the work of Diego Rivera. Many things are closed due to COVID.
Walking the streets behind the Malecon. La Paz seemed like a city in decline with many places shuttered up, broken windows, and just a general state of disrepair.
There was a lovely evening of blues music in an outdoor restaurant in our end of town. Apparently, due to the proximity to America, many international performances occur in La Paz.
The little boy in the collage below was adorable. He played his tennis racket guitar for the entire first set and most of the second. He took some cues from the performers and did guitar poses as the evening wore on. At the break, the bass guitarist and the drummer invited him up to try out their instruments. He was thrilled and of course, we all clapped wildly for him.
The most enjoyable time of the day for us in La Paz is heading up to the rooftop patio after dinner to watch the sunset over the desert and swing in a hammock or feet up in a chair. The dogs and cat relax up here with us and occasionally we have to jump up to prevent the cat from experimenting with jumping off the wall onto a slick tile roof that would surely shoot her to the concrete three floors below!
Next stop, Merida, with a pit stop in Tulum to get the car and a few personal items from the condo.
MERIDA
Three years ago, we visited Merida over Christmas and the New Year and really enjoyed it, so deciding that a longer stay was in order, an Airbnb villa was booked for two months. There are stories about how hot Merida gets in the summer and they are true.
Life here would be miserable without the plunge pool in the backyard. The pool has access to a cenote so when the pool water gets low from evaporation, or the surface is getting dirty you push a button that starts the pump and cenote water fills/overflows the pool.
There is a barbeque in the backyard and cooking outside prevents the kitchen from overheating.
Merida is appealing in so many ways beyond its history, colonial architecture, parks, plazas, and mixed cultures. It has received numerous international awards for things like being the safest city in the Americas; having the best quality of life in the country as well as the highest literacy levels and social security ratings in Mexico.
UNESCO gave it an award for creativity in its gastronomy and in 2021 Conde Naste Traveler magazine classified Merida as the best city in the world. Something only those who come to Mexico to live will appreciate is that it has been recognized for having the best regulatory and administrative conditions in all of Latin America.
Merida has many international partnerships and has hosted numerous international summits.
Settling into the Airbnb is easy as it is in the Santiago neighbourhood where we stayed before. It's a 20-minute walk to Paseo Montejo where we buy groceries and go on Sunday mornings to rent bicycles for 20 pesos/hour and to peddle car-free.
PASEO MONTEJO
Another 20-minute walk leads to Plaza Grande where Mayan cultural dancing happens on Monday evenings and is simply a great place to relax and people-watch.
Maya Dancers Plaza Grande
Our Canadian Airbnb host lives above us and her sister and brother-in-law live next door. We are invited to a dinner party there and soon return the invite. Sockeye salmon and maple syrup, both rare finds here were on our menu and the barbeque was fired up. In addition, Susan was able to come, a woman we have been corresponding with via Facebook since our last visit. It was great to actually meet her.
Coming home from Plaza Grande one evening is the delightful discovery of Casa Cuba a Cuban restaurant and bar that has good mojitos and a live Cuban band that transported us back to Havana.
On another day near the same place, we come upon La Cubanita, a lovely little hole-in-the-wall that has three meals that you can choose from. The food was plenty even with sharing a meal, tasty and very inexpensive.
After a while, some trips beyond the city are in order:
SISAL
The port of Sisal was important in colonial times particularly to the trade of henequen, tobacco, and cotton. Today its mostly known for its biological value to the Caribbean, especially as a wetland habitat for the pink flamingo. This little town is relatively undeveloped. Property and the few houses available for sale are expensive. Investing here a few years ago would have been a wise move.
The beach here is stunning, with white sand and gentle waves. We are amongst only a handful of gringos that day while vacationing Mexican families enjoy their beach time. There are no people selling wares up and down the beach or kiosks with junky tourist items, just sun, sea, and sand. Mexico dreamin'? Sisal is it.
PROGRESSO
Another day Progresso is in our sights. There were no ships in port that day, but there were many, many tourists and the tourist kiosks on the promenade and beach were too much with everyone calling out for you to buy their wares. There was no peace and quiet, so we walked the Malecon and left. A visit in the shoulder seasons would be better.
TEKAX
A trip south to visit friends/neighbours from Tulum Erik and Maribel is a delightful day.
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| In 1845 Tekax was briefly declared the capital city of Yucatan state. |
Not only did we have a traditional Yucatan meal but met their two kids, Erik's tia and tio, and had the pleasure of visiting the family home. Tekax is Erik's birthplace.
After lunch, Erik takes us on a walk up the 80 meters of stone steps to see the chapel dedicated to San Diego de Alcala de Henares and the incredible view over Tekax Centro Historico. Off in the distance, you can see the rainbow of colours that people have painted their lovely little colonial houses and the deep orange-red of the orchid-like blossoms on the Royal Poinciana (AKA: Flamboyant) trees.
There was time to walk to the closest of the caves near the church. Erik told us that in times of hurricane that the people would take refuge in the caves.
The tranquil Benito Juarez Park in Centro is completely enclosed with French-style decorative gates. The inviting wrought iron benches and lamps reminded us of Europe.
We admired the many arches at the Palacio Municipal (city hall).
Meandering across the street the Franciscan church (and former convent) built from stone from nearby Maya ruins and dedicated to San Juan Bautista is now open. Earlier there was a service in progress.
Tekax beckons us to visit again. There are the archeological ruins of Chacmultun to walk, a visit to the Museo do Fotografia, and time to explore the Hacienda Santa Maria a former sugar plantation, with gardens that are not to be missed.
HACIENDAS YAXCOPOIL & TEMOZON SUR
Henequen or sisal produced from one of the types of agave plants was a very valuable commodity in the mid 19th. century and made not only the plantation owners very rich but Yucatan state became the wealthiest in all of Mexico. The industry collapsed in the next century but these beautiful haciendas have been repurposed as museums, luxury hotels, spas, and restaurants.
Some haciendas were so huge that they had worker accommodation, chapels, hospitals, and schools. There were huge gardens to feed the workers and trains would come right up so the product could be shipped directly from the plantation.
Even though sisal has a much-depreciated value today, it is still produced in 15 countries. Mexico is the second-largest producer but is far behind the top producer, Brazil.
Hacienda Yaxcopoil
In the 17th. century this plantation was 22,000 acres in size. While today it is only one-third that, the grounds still seem to stretch forever. It is well-known for the double Moorish arches that greet visitors.
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| MAIN BUILDING |
Each room has different hand-painted tiled floors that still gleam today. The walls soaring to impossibly high ceilings are all hand-stencilled, each room unique.
There are reception rooms, drawing rooms, dining rooms, an office, library, chapel, a theatre for live plays, and a couple of large decks.
The well-stocked gift shop beckoned our wallet and supplied drinks to enjoy in old cast iron rocking chairs on a deck. We were allowed to stroll the grounds for as long as we wanted.
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| THEATER |
There were many outside buildings and structures in addition to the factory.
The pamphlet states that the furniture was imported from Europe and the American pumps that watered the plantation in 1864 are the same ones that water it today.
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| SISAL FACTORY |
The old trees on the grounds are magnificent. The birds of paradise are the largest I've ever seen. The walkways are peaceful and emerald green with the rainy season. Old factory equipment and treasures from Maya ruins on the plantation dot the landscape.
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| This house is a vacation rental on the hacienda grounds |
This was worth every peso of the MXN 125 admission fee.
Hacienda Temozon Sur
The hunger gremlins are saying it's time to move on to Hacienda Temozon which is now a 4-star hotel, restaurant, and spa.
The service was impeccable, the food very good, prices what you'd expect and the expansive view from our table so relaxing.
It was very disappointing that anything that was an active part of the hotel was off-limits on the tour. It was pretty obvious that not many rooms were rented; nor could we stroll the grounds or old factory on our own. The website does have photos of some of the rooms.
After lunch, we paid for a unilingual Spanish-speaking guide to show us around.
Once having seen the carriage room and factory we were led through some of the beautiful grounds and down into a rather dark cenote where apparently you can get several spa treatments by candlelight.
On the way out of the factory are some large stainless vats. The guide tells us that Pozol is made in them. Pozol is a cocoa drink made from fermented corn dough. The drink and the dough are traditional food and drink as well as being used as medicine and in ceremonies.
The wall mural below illustrates the importance of corn in the lives of indigenous people from the south of Mexico.
On the way, out is the chapel. The next photo is the walkway leading to the parking lot.
MUSEUM of ANTHROPOLOGY & HISTORY
Another way to beat the heat is to head for A/C, so a quick walk to the Paseo one afternoon and into the Museum of Anthropology and History - free admission for us permanent resident seniors.
This building was the home of the governor of Yucatan state, General Francisco Canton, and thus is AKA the Canton Palace. The story goes that the luxury in this building and in the General's lifestyle soon led to his bankruptcy and the government has owned the building since.
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| Marble Baluster & at the top of the stairs |
The exhibition is called the "Visible Word, Maya Hieroglyphic Writing". We come to appreciate even more the sophistication of this culture. In essence, each hieroglyphic sign represents one sound in the spoken language. The earliest Maya writing appeared in 400 BC.
The visible word includes the symbols and mathematics used in the Mayan calendar.
Hieroglyphics carved into sandstone 2,000 years ago to mark special and noteworthy events, then buried for centuries by the jungle can be read aloud today so that the Maya people can know and be proud of their history and share it with others.
Currently, more than 5 million people speak one of the 31 Maya languages.
The second floor of the museum had various modern exhibitions such as displays of fashion design and stitchery as art and portraits.
The time to walk in Merida is in the cooler early mornings and evenings. City parks are plentiful and provide an escape from concrete and noise. Their benches in the shade are a welcome respite as are the ice cream and food trucks that either go through or cruise the perimeter of the parks.
PARQUE de LAS AMERICAS
This park divided into four functional sections stretching over three corners of a busy intersection is dedicated to all the countries of the Americas and may be the most beautiful park in Merida. Throughout the park are concrete pillars with the name of a country and its shield.
The first section is a large semicircular monument that steps down to an enormous, tiered water feature. We can identify the face of Chac, the god of rain, thunder, and lightning, and later learn that the seven serpents represent the god Kulkulkan.
Catty-corner across the street is an acoustic shell with an open-air stage. Up either side is a promenade reminiscent of the Temple of Warriors at Chitzen Itza.
Another section of the park is a playground with games and a small cycle track with carts.
The fourth section is the "Josi Marti" library and cultural center. We read later that it's in the shape of a Mayan hut. On either side of the main door are illustrations of a deer and a pheasant.
Behind the library is a large circular resting area perfect for reading and quiet conversation. The day we are there a bride and groom are posing with their photographer. This area is flanked by two stelae:
as well as two chac-mools (reclining figures):
Not part of the park but on an adjacent street is a church that deserves mention for its incredible and numerous stained glass windows. The one over the entrance door is particularly detailed.
The Centenario Park where the zoo is, is closed and looks like perhaps it has been since COVID struck, but the entrance is so impressive, had to post a photo:
And in the park across the street from Centenario is this bench:
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| In memory of all women murdered by those who claimed to love them |
Police here have had little or no education/training in relationship violence. The Mexico Office of UN Women authored a report in 2019 which claimed that 10 women are killed every day in Mexico. In 2020 there was some training given to a few officers re how to respond positively in situations of relationship violence that showed improved outcomes for women, but gender-related violence remains a huge problem here and in most Latin American countries.
Frida Guerrera (a pseudonym to protect her) is a journalist who follows cases of missing women to expose those who murdered them. Numerous times she has been hunted down and beaten. Her blog is here:
Frida's Blog
LINDA HEALTH UPDATE
Happy to report no more need for physio. Back to 100%. Doing lots of walking in Merida every day. I am hoping this will be like the slipped disc Paul had about 20 years ago. It happened once, never to return.
EXCELLENT BREAKFAST
Up early for a walk one day and then BF at this popular cafe in Santiago. Delicious eggs benedict for a reasonable price. Managed to not buy some of the delicious-looking pastries in the bakery on the way out. Next time.
THE WRITTEN WORD IN ENGLISH
It is rainy season now and like clockwork, it suddenly starts to pour rain at about 4 pm so both Netflix and a visit to the English library help pass those afternoons. COVID measures are that books are ordered online and picked up - no browsing. However, in a separate building, they have a used book sale at 20 pesos/book. Shopping is allowed here.
We never do make it to the English bookstore called Between the Lines. They have just opened to four customers at a time for browsing or order online and pick up your books.
SLOW FOOD FARMERS MARKET
Today we discovered the pleasure of the Slow Food Farmer's Market that's every Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm. There's lots of organic produce, of course, handicrafts, a health food store and bakery, organic cafes and restaurants, and food products. We brought home hummus with black olives, four different types of empanadas made with exquisitely flakey pastry, corn tostadas, and French Roast coffee which is so hard to find anywhere in Mexico.
MUSEO de ARTE POPULAR de YUCATAN (AKA: Yucatan Folkart Museum)
This little museum is free for everyone and well worth the visit, open Wednesday to Sunday.
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| The building itself was beautiful including several stained glass windows. |
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| And of course, hand-painted pasta tile floors each meticulously bordered |
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| Mythical items painted in such detail is a folk art that is alive & well today in the Yucatan |
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| Animals whether farmed or wild are often depicted |
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| This display of thirsty jaguars is cleaver |
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| Pottery whether functional or as eye candy is often highly decorated |
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| A showpiece of 'highly decorated' |
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| The weaving of clothes and baskets and needlework are long-standing traditions |
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| This is a very small part of a large needlework tapestry |
The final few photos from this museum are what we consider to be some truly unique items:
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| Terracotta drum set-hairpin-piggybank faces-painted gourd-masks-copper pot |
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| Hand-painted wood chest |
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| A shoe-maker returns to his family on the day of the dead |
The CHELADA
No. It's not a dance, but perhaps after a few, dancing would be in order. For some reason after a couple of years in Mexico, I finally discover the Chelada and now in this crazy heat and humidity of Merida, it's the only way that I want to drink beer. Somehow the lime juice turns the beer into something very lively and refreshing. In essence, a cold Mexican beer (not a dark one) in a cold glass rimmed with salt or tajin and juice of 1 to 2 limes in the bottom of the glass with beer gently added.
I've stayed away from the Micheladas as they appear to be a 'heavier' drink but they too are probably made to beat the heat, something that local people know how to do well. They are the Mexican version of a Bloody Mary.
PLACES NOT VISITED DUE to TEMPORARY COVID CLOSURES:
One thing we had really wanted to do in Merida was to visit some traditional cantinas to hear music and sample some of the more creative (free) botanas, AKA appetizers. But these are closed due to COVID.
Another is the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya:
... and the Palacio de la Musica for both the music and to see beautiful contemporary architecture:
Music Palace
These are reminders that one day a return to Merida is needed.
A news item announces that the Gallery of Contemporary Art near Plaza Grande has been permanently closed due to a withdrawal of government funding. Hopefully, the beautiful building will be put to good use.
Our move next week is to San Miguel de Allende where we will pass the winter. It will be a relief to escape the oppressive summer heat of Merida.
COVID, especially the Delta variant is spreading rapidly in the world, including Mexico, so who knows what fall and winter will bring.
May this little fellow watch over you and keep you safe:
