MEZCAL (Nectar of the Gods)
This post focuses on our visit to a palenque and the making of mezcal, while a post on villages looks at the function of mezcal in society today, and in one on museums there's a room dedicated to mezcal from the early days of the town.
We wake up on the morning of our last day in Mitla, knowing that we haven't yet arranged a visit to a palenque to learn about mezcal making. Not a problem, as we are on the "Caminos del Mezcal" (mezcal corridor) of Mexico, the 12 km that runs between San Pablo Villa de Mitla and Santiago Matatlan. Matatlan proudly holds the title of "World Capital of Mezcal".
Here there are 140 to 150 family palenques, of which 30 to 40 are fully certified and more than a hundred that are uncertified, selling to neighbours, in markets or to regional restaurants as a 'house pour'. We have actually heard of numbers much higher than this. Who knows!
A quick internet search gives recommendations on a couple to visit, except that on arrival we learn that one no longer does tours and another apparently no longer exists, so we simply ask a moto-taxi driver to take us to a palenque near Mitla that does both Ancestral and Artisanal distilling.
He delivers us to Bitao, a third-generation family operation, and we are in good hands.
A young man, speaking perfect English, comes out to meet us and offers an immediate tour and a tasting (no charge). The demand for mezcal has exploded internationally, going from a million litres in 2010 to 11 - 14 million at present. This has turned an area of the state that was formerly impoverished, and with young people migrating out to find work, into an area where youth stay home to work in the family business, or when elders return to their roots to start a business, where families and communities thrive, and where parents can afford to have their children stay in school.
It's said here that almost every family is directly employed in the industry, with the Elders and Maestros in charge of the overall craft, tasting and quality control. The younger generation looks after tourism, sales, marketing and a digital presence and the hired field hands and labourers.
Such growth also creates pressures as large, international spirit conglomerates want to create a cash cow, making a speedy product, with little regard for the environment, sustainability, traditions or quality. Government regulation stepped in, and there are very clear guidelines for how and where a product labelled mezcal is produced. Oaxaca state makes 90% of the mezcal made in a total of nine states.
This pressure has also made families hyperaware of what they need to do to keep their distilleries going for their grandchildren's children things like: planting trees to keep a supply of firewood for burning the heart of the maguey; avoiding monoculture and practicing the milpa system to nourish the soil (rotating corn, beans and squash); and the forming of collectives (often women-led) to protect the ancestral methods, ensure fair wages and working conditions and to promote sustainable re-planting of agave.
He starts us on a platform overlooking the agave fields to teach us a bit about the plant, mezcal and the industry.
Globally, there are 270 recognized species of maguey, but only 30 to 50 species have the sugar content and the fibre structure to survive the roasting and distilling process. Mexico is home to 75% of all known species.
Other species are used for ornamental landscaping, in the textile industry (henequen) or are tapped for their aguamiel (honey nectar) to ferment (not distill) into pulque.
We are looking at Agave Angustifolia (Espadin), the species used in 85 to 90% of all Artisanal mezcal. In addition to the right sugar and fibre content, it loves being cultivated by humans, and it matures in only 7 to 12 years. Some species take up to 35 years to mature.
His family also distills some mezcal made from wild varieties of agave (called Silvestres). These typically are harvested from rocky cliffs, steep canyons and high-altitude pine forests. They are hard to find and take a long time to grow, so mezcals made from wild agave are more expensive. The Maestro Mezcalero may roast, crush and ferment several wild varieties together to get enough hearts to fill the oven, making for creative and interesting blends.
To start with we need to learn the difference between the types of mezcal. Without going into too much detail, they are:
- Ancestral Mezcal - has the strictest standards. Roasting the pinas can only be done in traditional underground earthen pits. Crushing must be done either by hand with mallets or an animal pulling the grinding stone; fermentation must be done in natural materials such as stone, wood, clay or animal skins; distillation can only be in direct fire heated clay pots and the first distillation must include agave fibres.
- Artisanal Mezcal - is the middle ground between ancestral and standard, in that the roasting can be done in underground pits or in above-ground masonry ovens, crushing can be done the old way or with mechanical shredders, fermentation is the same as in ancestral, but inclusion of agave fibres is optional, and distillation may include stainless steel pots.
- Standard Mezcal - that permits industrial machinery, including continuous column stills that maximize production.
All methods must: use only the specifically permitted varieties of agave; have an agave-forward flavour and must be made only in the authorized states.
learn the lesson that mezcal is best tasted in kisses (small sips)
We see the halved or quartered agave heart (pinas) waiting to be burned.
The agave pit (horno) is dug directly into the earth, is cone-shaped, 6 to 10 feet in diameter and 5 to 8 feet deep. It's then lined with river stones and volcanic rock. The fire built in the bottom is made with local hardwood (oak or mesquite). When the wood has burned down to red hot coals, more rocks are thrown on top. Then, to prevent burning of the pinas, a mat of wet palms or old agave fibre is placed on the rocks. Then the pinas (biggest ones to the bottom) are followed by another layer of wet mat and a heavy canvas, and all is then sealed with a heavy layer of dirt. Roasting can take from three to seven days, depending on weather, how much smokiness the maestro wants, the size of the pinas, etc. When the roasting is done, the pinas need to cool for 24 to 36 hours.
The purpose of roasting is to turn the plant's complex carbohydrates into simple sugar, which is needed for the distilling part of the process, to give a smoky flavour and to soften the pulp.
The cooled pinas then need to be crushed. Our guide shows how it is done by hand with a mallet, or the preferred method for the workers is to let their horse pull the stone (tahona) to grind it.
Crushing serves three purposes: done gently with a mallet or stone, the pulverized fibers have a richer and more complex flavor than when done with high speed mechanical shredders; it allows for the release and collection of liquid for the fermentation vats and it exposes the sugary fibers to air, creating a surface area for wild, windborne yeast to consume the sugars that will then be converted to alcohol. (No commercial yeasts or accelerators are added.)
Below is a fermentation vat that has the liquid from the crushing, as well as much of the fibre. This process can take anywhere from 3 to 15 days. Here is the art - the maestro gauges how the fermentation is going by measuring temperature and listening to the hissing and bubbling of the process and decides when it is done by judging the aroma, taste and lack of movement in the barrel. His only controls are the use of shade/exposure to sun and the addition of water (or not).
Photo below is of the liquid and fibre fermenting in a wood barrel. This is what is taken to the stills when it is ready.
Here a worker is removing fibre from a copper still. When the process starts, he has to add the liquid and fibre from the fermenting barrel to the still.
Below are the two stills. Today both copper pots are working hard.
As the liquid slowly drips out of the still, it has 3 different 'body' parts: The Head (puntas); the Body or Heart (cuerpo or corazon); and the Tail (colas).
The Gold Standard is to do 2 distillations, except for Puchuga mezcal and Ancestral, which undergo 3 distillations.
The first distillation (Ordinario) is cloudy, low alcohol (20-25%) and not pleasant to drink. At this point the still is emptied and washed clean. The Ordinario is put back into the still and distilled for the second time (Rectificacion) to achieve a final alcohol content of about 45%. During this second distillation, the Maestro can play with the puntas, corazon and colas to get the flavour balance that he wants.
Here are the clay pots for the distilling of the Ancestral mezcal. Our guide's father is the Maestro, and he usually makes only one batch a month. The pots can break easily with the hot fire.
After the tour, we head over to the tasting bar. I am not a fan, so Paul is doing the honours and is given about a dozen different ones to taste. Between each taste, he needs to clean his palate by dipping a slice of lime into the sal de gusano (made from ground worms, chilli and sea salt) and take a bite.
I wish our phone camera could capture the tasting bar. This small distillery makes so many different kinds it's hard to believe. I bought a small bottle that was flavoured with Jamaica flowers; I believe after the distillation, making it an Abocado con mezcal, and Paul bought a small bottle of one of many that he liked.
It was an amazing experience to see how 'crude' the process looked with all the dirt thrown onto the cooking pinas, the open-air fermentation, the fibre going into the still, and miraculously this treasured, clean and clear liquid comes out.
6 TYPES of MEZCAL
BLANCO - REPOSADO - ANEJO - MADURADO en VIDRIO - ABOCADO con - DESTILADO con
3 tastings made from the precious wild agave. Note the picture on the label of each agave plant used.
Note that the Anejo bottle is a richer, deeper colour than the Reposado, as it is aged in barrels for up to three years, compared to just 2 to 12 months for the Reposado.
And for something a little different, on the left is an Ancestral mezcal, in the middle, one infused with marijuana leaves and on the right, one infused with avocado.
I'll leave you with this quote I found on the internet - source unknown:
"Mezcal,
a mystical, magical, aphrodisiac, and extraordinary drink. When
consumed in reasonable quantities, it awakens the spirit, soothes
heartbreak, stimulates the imagination, erases resentment, provides
companionship in loneliness, and makes the world seem a much better
place."
COCINA OAXAQUENA
More than any place we have ever visited in Mexico, or daresay the world, we are so impressed with the traditional ways of growing, preparing and eating the food from this region. This passing down of skills and knowledge is embedded in everything from humble street food to the prized mole. Cooking with all of the senses, with no fancy (indeed, some would say with crude) kitchen equipment. Understanding what each food has to give, sometimes with complex preparation and often with brilliant pairings to bring out the best in each and to create layers of taste.
Here, we witness almost no catering to the tastes of 'Americanized' tourists with hamburgers and fries.
UNESCO has recognized that Mexican cuisine is so vast, complex and regionally distinct that it is designated as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
As always, we seek out food where the locals eat: in Comedores Familiar, from street food carts, at beachside tables, in roadside palapas and markets, and the free little botanas given in cantinas and some bars ... and then a modern restaurant that uses traditional ingredients.
THE LAND OF SEVEN MOLES
The truth is that there are as many moles as there are cooks in Oaxaca. I look for an official list by some kind of official culinary department, but there is none. The seven were chosen to highlight the diversity of mole throughout the state. They are: Negro, Amarillo, Coloradito, Verde, Manchamanteles, Chichilo, and Poblano. I personally tried five different ones, three of which are on the list, each delicious in its own right.
There's a vegetarian restaurant in Oaxaca (run by a women's cooperative) that has a plate that includes all seven of the moles. In the end we don't get there (next time).
If you go to Part 4 of this series: Moving Through the Valley, there is a story about the making of Barbacoa de Borrego, and you will see a pot of mole almost as big as a bathtub as a community feast.
I am one of eight people visiting Oaxaca from around the globe who register for a cooking class with Chef Alfonso (Poncho). We gather at a market where he teaches us about all the different chillies.
We also learn about huitlacoche, which I have seen before, but knew nothing about. It's also known as 'Corn Smut', or the term I prefer, the 'Mexican Truffle'. It's a fungus that appears on organic corn during the rainy season. The corn takes on a bulbous, blue-black appearance. It is valued for its deep smoky, nutty, umami flavour that also picks up the sweetness of the corn sugars. It's used in quesadillas, tacos, tamales, soups, sauces and scrambled with eggs. We eat it as part of an antojito that we make from the corn tortillas up.
At the market we buy it in a packet that looks like this when spread out in a dish.
So, the menu for class is: an appetizer (antojito) which could be a lunch in itself. Poncho has made the masa dough for the tortillas, but it needs a little more work, and we learn how to tell from the feel if it needs a bit more water. We cook them on his gas stove with modern cookware, not on a traditional clay comal over an open fire. We heap on guacamole, Oaxacan string cheese, and a carrot coleslaw.
Then there is the mole rojo served over boiled chicken, vegetables and rice and a delicious Mexican custard called Lechesilla topped with fresh berries and a fine grating of dark Oaxacan chocolate.
While preparing the ingredients for the antojito, we also learn to make mezcalitas. I don't care for a shot of mezcal, but this cocktail with jamaica and a few other ingredients was delicious. Chef Alfonso's father was part of our group too. His role was to keep us fed with mezcal, to keep us on track carrying out the chef's instructions and to teach us how to salsa during any downtime. The afternoon was a whole lot of fun, a good learning experience, and I can hardly wait to try making Mole Rojo at home.
Chef Alfonso
... and provecho (the bon appetite greeting)
Our first meal out near the main Zocalo in Oaxaca is in a pizzeria that proudly advertises that it is Oaxaquena. We have had all of the ingredients in different presentations: the Oaxacan string cheese in tortas and tortillas, the chapulinas (grasshoppers) as crunchy, salty snacks with beer and the cabeza de vaca (cow's head) in a favourite taco. All together on a thin crust pizza made with a slightly sweet dough, rimmed with toasted sesame seeds and a brilliant tomato sauce works so well, we eat every last bite.
One of our most memorable meals was in the huge Sunday market in Tlacolula, eating barbacoa de borrego (See Part 4 of the posts).
In San MartÃn Tilcajete, we ask a tuk-tuk driver to take us to a place that serves traditional food, and we end up here:
We wander into Azul Adobe, an attractive-looking little place and are warmly greeted by owner Miguel and share some conversation in broken English and Spanish. What to eat is a hard choice as all looks good ... Oaxaquena food, of course. I decide on the Pink Mole (known as Barbie Mole by the children of the community), and Paul has a pork stew that has layers of different seasonings, making for a unique and complex taste.
The original pink mole came from Guerro state, but this one is completely different. It is made with a base similar to mole negro, but without the chilles, which are replaced with beetroot, and some unique seasonings. It is served with pork and, of course, some rice to soak up the delicious sauce.
After lunch, we meet Reyna and Miguel takes us back to meet their staff person who is busy making memelitas and tortillas made with blue corn masa and cooking them on the comal, flipping them over the old way, with bare fingers, despite the heat.
Miguel
Reyna
Pink Mole
I saw this ad for an original ice cream, and had to send it to our nephew-in-law who loves jackfruit. I've eaten it, but it's not my favourite.
The Paleta man is my go-to guy, and while the flavours are very creative, I can't pull myself away from paleta de coco. I prefer it con agua (with water), but often I can only get con leche (with milk), and that's OK too.
COFFEE
I don't drink coffee, and Paul is a French roast guy. Most of the beans in Mexico are red. We had planned to do an overnight in a finca (coffee farm in the Oaxaca Valley), but it turns out they are all luxury spots, so we decided not to do that.
CHOCOLATE
It seems fitting to end the food section of this post with chocolate, just as a meal might be ended with a small tray of chocolate chunks or a custard topped with finely grated chocolate.
We've already eaten a few pieces from this dish.
Mesoamericans invented chocolate 3,500 to 4,000 years ago - the Olmec, Maya and Aztecs made a beverage that was cold, frothy, and bitter. It was whipped with water and mixed with cornmeal, herbs, chillies and flower petals.
Today, the Ivory Coast and Ghana grow 50% of the world's supply of cacao, while Mexico grows about 0.5% (in Chiapas and Tabasco), but because of its ancient history, it is considered the 'spiritual' leader of chocolate.
One day, passing a chocolate shop, we stop in for a free little tour, information, and tasting session.
When the pod is harvested, there are 30 to 50 seeds coated in a sticky, sweet, white, tropical pulp that tastes like a mix of lychee, mango and pineapple. A seed is chopped in half lengthwise to check the internal colour as classified below.
The washed white is highly prized as it is from an ancient native variety. The washed purple is the most common in the world. When raw wet seeds are put in wooden boxes for 4 to 7 days, the pulp ferments and, in that process, produces heat that destroys the bitter compounds in the seed. The darker the brown after fermentation, the more prized.
Below is the room where the softened seeds are kneaded into a paste, directly on the metal table.
A wall in the tasting room: wax candles have dripped down from their holders.
We, of course, buy a couple of bars and enjoy them later, after dinner.
If you want to buy chocolate for making drinks or fine eating bars, the internet has lots of suggestions for each category. Chocolate bars are having a revival now with young choclatiers.
Chocolate should have only 3 or 4 ingredients: Cacao (should be the first ingredient), sugar, cinnamon and perhaps almonds. The package should indicate the origin of the bean.
On a similar vein: I would love to take home some mole paste, but the airlines classify paste as a liquid, and we can only carry on luggage, so I'll be experimenting with making my own mole from scratch.
I may never master mole from scratch, but we left Oaxaca with a much deeper appreciation for the skill, patience and tradition behind every meal.
