VEVCANI - Day Trip from Struga, Macedonia

We’re off on the combi for a 14 km ride to the Village of Vevcani at the foot of the Jablanica mountain range.   As of 2018, the population of the Village stood at 2,343 individuals.  Vevcani is famous for its springs that originate in the mountains and run through the village.  There is one large spring that comes out of the mouth of a cave and ten minor springs.  In addition, there are several glacial lakes in the mountain range.

Archaeological research shows that it has been here since the second century BC.

With the breakup of Yugoslavia, and partly influenced by a dispute over its precious spring water, this little village with heart applied to become the Independent Republic of Vevcani.  Their bid failed, but they had created their very own sample passport, still in use today, which is stamped when you visit. You can also purchase their sample money, which is non-legal tender.

People in Vevcani have their own dialect of the Macedonian language that is spoken only by people here and in 3 other nearby villages.  

This town is also famous for its annual New Year’s Festival, (based on pagan beliefs and practices) which has been going on for 1,400 years, and attracts thousands to this little place every January 13 and 14.  Read more about it here: Vevcani Carnival

Well, how can you not visit a village with such a remarkable history?

As there are no published bus schedules that we can find, we end up waiting an hour for the bus … which runs on the hour throughout the day.  We had just missed it.  In the end, we have only half a day in Vevcani.  It would be interesting to spend a night or two as there are many hiking trails.  The one to the neighbouring village of Gorna Belica looks worthwhile as well as heading to a glacial lake on top of the mountain.

As we walk through town we see that the springs have been directed to run through the town so that the citizens can use it.  We see an older woman dipping her bucket in to water her flowers.

A few photos from around Vevcani

On the way into town we pass this church, St Nikola built in 1862.  The church is not open today so we admire the outdoor rock furniture.

Just before entering the park is a lovely restaurant right on one of the springs and partly built into the rock.  We have a drink here just to enjoy the setting.

After paying the fee of 20 denar (less than 50 cents CAD) each we enter the small park that has springs running through it.  This is a special place, like a cocoon, the glowing green of lush growth and the sound of water envelope you.  The trails here are wide and smooth, miniature bridges cross the spring and there’s one small cave.  A few locals have brought their lunch and sit at the scattered picnic tables. 

While there’s much beauty in this small park, we are up for some exercise so head out to look for the hiking trail to upper Sveti Spas a monastery from the 19^th. century built on and into the rock of the mountain.  

On the way to find the trail we see clouds of dust coming out of a small building, our noses poking around the door, a man invites us in.  He is grinding whole wheat flour in a water-driven mill that is 300 years old.  We are surprised at how fine the flour is.  He also grinds corn.  

The water from the main spring in Vevcani is quite powerful.  Behind the building we see big steel barrels welded together to direct the water into the mill.  Our conversation is mostly pantomime with this elderly gentleman who speaks no English.  I would like to ask if his father before him operated the mill.  I do worry about his lungs...there is no protective gear in sight.

We walk about a km to find the trail.  The trail is only 1.6 km long, but it is straight up.  The trek takes you through some beautiful iron oak forest.  We meet no one else going up to or coming down from the monastery.

I read that there are three special times during the year when the locals hike up to visit this monastery and indeed it looks as though some restoration work is being done here.

On the trail up.  It got rugged near the top.  Beautiful beetle squished on trail

The monastery is a tiny building.  The cross stands tall on the hill behind it.  The building with the picnic tables is quite large and the one that seems to be getting some work done it.  A new roof is complete.  It looks like a place where people gather for festivals.

It is amazing to see how wide open this valley is.  We can see many small villages scattered here and there, Lake Ohrid off in the background and many parcels of small farmland.

Finally, Vevcani is notable for its traditional food, so we had decided beforehand to stay for dinner.  In truth, we are disappointed in the food, but the setting of the outdoor restaurant almost makes up for it.  We are surrounded by flowers and a hodge-podge of antiques.  A spring flows into the center of the yard and they’ve created a pool for fish.  The big old house has been turned into a small hotel.  Strings of peppers and garlic braids greet guests at the door.

With a good feeling of weariness in our muscles, we head to the town square to meet the bus on the half-hour.  With time to spare, Paul stops at a little place for a shot of rakia (similar to grappa) to toast this delightful little place and its people.