Transparency: This post is being written in 2020 as we did not have a blog in 2016. I am using stay at home time to flatten the curve of the global pandemic Covid-19 to organize photos from this trip into a post. Memories may not be exact.
Battambang
A short bus ride from Siem Riep leads to the city of Battambang, the capital of Battambang province.
This is a lovely small city that we remember for the beautiful little hotel we stayed in, the colonial architecture, the good food, and for Kim Lim the tuk-tuk driver who drove us around the country-side for two days. Kim showed us the bamboo train (along with the brick kiln and sawmill); a rice wrap maker; a rice winemaker and a fish cheese factory. He took us wandering through farmland where he named plants and told us how to use them; gave us our first taste of sticky rice done in bamboo and explored temples, museums and so much more. We loved our time here.
The Bamboo Train carried rice, people, livestock and supplies between the villages of O Danbung and O Sra Lan. There is only one track so when an oncoming car approached, the car with the least people or goods was unloaded, dismantled and moved to the side of the track. We, of course, get that experience. At the starting place, there is a sawmill to explore and at the other end an old brick factory or kiln. We travel through rice and farmer's fields, apparently approaching speeds of up to 40 km/hour in places.
It takes quite a while for us to do and see everything so Kim Lim takes the opportunity to have a siesta. He must have been very tired as we arrive back and walk all over the village for about an hour asking everyone if they have seen Kim. Another tuk-tuk driver feels sorry for us and gives us some jack fruit to eat and pass the time. Finally, he emerges, a bit sheepishly from somewhere and off we go. Many times we marvel at the ability of people in tropical climates to fall asleep almost instantly on and in anything from a concrete floor (Mexico) to a hammock, to sand or rocks on a beach.
We travelled on the original bamboo train. We heard that it was shut down for some time and a new sanitized version is now running.
 |
| Waiting our turn to ride |
 |
| Filling her up and leaning over the gas with a cigarette going |
 |
| Going down the track |
 |
| Sawmill |
We can't remember if the villagers could use the brick factory to make themselves a few bricks as needed or if the woman in the collage below was just doing a demonstration of how that part of the factory worked in times past.
For the first time, we taste sticky rice barbecued in bamboo. It's smoky and sweet and delicious. We've eaten many variations of it since. Sometimes beans are added, or dried fruit or nuts, coconut or whatever is handy. It is our go-to snack for long bus rides or picnics as it's easy to carry, doesn't need special care and is very filling and satisfying.
We had made a decision that we did not want to visit the big Cambodian Killing Fields. We have done some reading about that terrible time and have just finished the book: "First They Took My Father". It's enough. Kim decides to take us to a small memorial that documents the unimaginable tortures suffered by people at the hands of the Khmer Rouge and holds the bones of some of the people who died here.
Another stop is at a fish factory. A variety of fish are drying outside in the sun. Inside "fish cheese" is being made. Its actually called prahok and is a fermented fish paste often added to soups and sauces for flavour and saltiness. Sometimes it's eaten as a condiment. Its strong smell gave it the nickname fish cheese. We hold our breath for long periods as we go through the factory but nothing keeps the smell away.
 |
| Fish drying |
 |
| Bringing the catch of the day to the factory |
These two fish factory workers ask us to take their photos and post them on Facebook. We oblige.
 |
| Inside the fish factory |
 |
| Fish in various stages of fermentation |
Riding around in the tuk-tuk we see for the first time gasoline sold by the roadside in pop bottles of varying sizes. We wonder how they don't explode in the hot sun. Later as we rent scooters in various Asian countries we are glad to see these stands everywhere. They are a necessity.
The next stop is to see a family business making rice wrappers for spring rolls.
These two women work with a very thin, watery rice gruel swirled onto a plate that is heated by a little stove fueled by rice husks. Its fast, hot work.
 |
| Rice husk fuel for the stove |
 |
| Finished wrappers drying in the sun and ready for sale |
Nearby is a man who runs a small one-person rice wine distillery.
 |
| The stills |
 |
| A small operation |
 |
| The master at work |
 |
| Many flavourings can be added to rice wine as its being made such as fruit or ginseng |
 |
| The taste is divine |
A brief stop at a temple in the countryside
And another temple
Kim Lim stops here and there at farms to show us different crops.
 |
| Chilli Peppers |
 |
| Looking out over a cornfield and across a river |
The stop at a winery is quick. Cambodia is not particularly known for its fine wines. On the other hand, they sold some fruit drinks, some of which if I remember correctly had medicinal properties.
We stop by a village just to see the enormous fruit bats hanging out. Mangoes are a favourite food.
 |
| Peanuts in the shell drying by the road |
Lunch stop is on the grounds of a temple that we have to climb hundreds of steps to get up to. The grounds are lovely and we get to watch young boys trying out their balance in boats.
Kim gets to choose a hammock near the baby for his siesta while we get a workout.
 |
| View from the Bottom & View from the Top |
Kim ended the trip on a highlight. He took us to a village where wrinkle-lipped bats fly by the thousands out of a cave at dusk. While we looked around Kim went home and got his wife and young daughter to come to join us.
Many tourists come to watch this phenomenon, but many local people also gather to watch. These bats are especially valued as they eat a bug that likes to feed on the precious rice crops.
We thought there was no end to the bats as they came out of a small opening of the cave. We watched and watched and as we were on our way home we could still see the bats flying over the fields.
We saw and learned much from Kim in just two days. He earned his salary and a big tip. Hopefully, he can soon buy the new tuk-tuk that he needs.
On to Phnom Penh
Random Photos Battambang
 |
| Feed for livestock must be gathered & brought home |
 |
| A typical home in the country with lots of pots for collecting water |
The enormous statue below at a traffic circle at the edge of town is of Ta Dumbong Kro Aung who is credited as being Battambang's founder. Legend has it that while herding cattle he came upon a black magic stick and used it to usurp the king. People of Battambang bring offerings to the statue.
No comments:
Post a Comment