Tuesday, April 5, 2016

9 Weeks Back packing SE Asia: Part 3b - Nha Trang + Monkey & Marble Mountains and Hoi An

Transparency: This post is being written in 2020 as we did not have a blog in 2016.  I am using stay at home time to flatten the curve of the global pandemic Covid-19 to organize photos from this trip into a post.  Memories may not be exact.

Nha Trang ("Riveria of the South China Sea")

Tran Phu, the main beach here is truly beautiful, six km with promenade, shops, eateries, bars, outdoor exercise equipment and lovely clear, warm sea.  Looking out is a clutch of small islands and beyond that a ring of mountains.

We generally eat in town as it's much less expensive and there are great little places in back alleys that serve up free appys at Happy Hour.

We are here for a very short time - a beach day and a trip to Monkey and Marble Mountains.  Nha Trang claims to have the most number of sunny days in all of Vietnam.

We walk the long promenade a couple of times a day to make sure we are ready the stop at Pha Nha-Ke Bang National Park.

The couple we met in Dalat was coming here to rent a home for several months and its one of the places that people from Russia come to escape their winter.

There are a lot of outdoor activities here, particularly rock climbing, but also some trekking.  We did none of that.


A favourite stop on the beach for a cool one


Resort cabin on the beach
Nha Trang is also known as the seafood capital of Vietnam.  I take this photo from the bus window on the way to Da Nang, a bay full of fishing boats.


Marble Mountains in Da Nang

We take a tour bus as Da Nang is a 35-minute drive from Nha Trang.  We can see both Marble and Monkey Mountains in one day.  We stop for lunch in between and eat real Pho for the first time with a plate of veggies in the centre of the table for each of us to add to our broth as we wish.  It's delicious.  There is a brief stop at a marble factory too.  I don't mind this commercialism as its fascinating to see what can be carved from marble.

Marble mountain is a series of five limestone and marble hills that are amazing to explore.  We head down into the first mountain and clamber from cave to cavern.  Much of the marble is well worn and can be quite slippery underfoot.

 Hidden Buddhas are everywhere, not to mention the depiction of hell.  Some of the statues inside caves are enormous, 40 feet high or more. There is much to see outside too: statues, gardens and pagodas.

The first thing to notice is the stunning views from atop the mountains.


There are entrance gates to various caves and caverns.  I mostly cannot now put the photos below in any order or attach them to particular places.  Simply enjoy.

Ong Chon Gate







Guardians


The Quan Am cavern was discovered not too long ago


Many of the depictions related to hell have to do with torture


Some of the cave entrances and exits




How I'd love to have one of these on a home patio



There are many beautiful things at the marble factory, but there is some ceramic too.  This vase is one of our favourite pieces:


Monkey Mountain in Da Nang

Atop the 2,300 foot, Monkey Mountain stands the 67 metres, high Goddess of Mercy, on a lotus platform.  The platform has 17 levels inside, each level with an alter celebrating twenty-one different Buddha statues.  On the day we were there we could not get into the platform.

The beautiful Linh Ung Pagoda will lead you to the Goddess.


The Goddess of Mercy watches over and provides protection to the sailors and fishers of the Son Tra Sea.  She can be seen from downtown Da Nang, 14 km away ... and she is stunning.


Some random photos from Monkey Mountain






We didn't spend any time in Da Nang itself although it seems there is quite a lot to do there from the Dragon Bridge to a choice of several beaches, exploring the Ba Na Hills or visiting the Chaum Museum.

Two years after we were there the Golden Hand Bridge opened.  I would love to see it.

Found on Facebook.  Photo credit to eva.vn  No copyright infringement intended

Hoi An (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

We fell in love with Hoi An first when we rambled through its Ancient Town and observed newlyweds releasing lanterns into the river by the old covered Japanese bridge; then again when we cycled through the rice fields with working water buffalo just a short distance from town and later cycling along the Thu Bon River, stopping for lunch and a beer on the side of the river.  The night market with its hundreds of lanterns overhead caught our hearts too.

We were lucky enough to discover a beautiful new boutique hotel that was offering opening specials for less than $25 per room.  The Osaka had an infinity pool and the staff served breakfast at tables around the pool.  Here we met up again with Leah that we first met in Siem Reap and went out on the town with Ginny and Nathan that we met in Ho Chi Minh city.


The bathroom for our room above with a marble tub & shower was as nice as in any fancy spa.

Leah
The Osaka Villa was located midway between Hoi An and the beach and had free bicycles for our use.  I looked online I think in 2018 and it was still very reasonably priced.


The paths that divide the rice fields into sections are concrete.  So easy to cycle.


The view from our room window - a fish farm.


The ancient Japanese Bridge in Old Town
When Ginny and Nathan took us into town at night.  There were newlyweds in boats releasing lanterns into the water, I think to bring happiness to their marriage.  Some couples have many lanterns to float on the water.   It was incredibly beautiful.


Day Market in Old Town: Anthony Bourdain came to Hoi An specifically to eat Banh Mi Phuong and Cao Lau (noodle dish), both regional foods.



Hoi An - famous for its noodles and noodle dish, Cao Lau


The Hoi An night market is a fairyland with lanterns like these hung everywhere for decoration and for sale.


Across the river, looking back to Old Town.  Note the ochre colour of the old buildings.



Working on the River
Since we were there, renting a basket boat has become the 'thing' for tourists to do.  I tell the story of the basket boat in a 2019 blog post and how it was a way for fishermen to avoid taxes by not being a boat.


This is a great place to shop.  The artisans here all have a disability of sorts.  You can watch them work and talk to them.  The quality is excellent.


One day we are out cycling and come upon a temple in disrepair that has a ditch with water outside its gate, filled with lotus plants.  The lotus flower rises from the muck that it grows in to achieve enlightenment.  In eastern religions, it symbolizes purity, enlightenment, self-regeneration and rebirth.



Ginny and Nathan pick us up at the hotel and we head downtown for dinner.  It was fabulous as we sat on a dock sharing street food dishes that we didn't know about.

Last year we spoke with them.  They have since moved from Hoi An to New Zealand, got married and now have a beautiful daughter.  I didn't have the camera handy when we went out with them so I borrowed this photo from their Facebook page.


Hoi An, just another Vietnamese city that would be wonderful to settle in for a while.

Next on to Hue.


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