This post would not have been possible without two resources handed out by ABC Boat hire: "Union Canal Unlocked: Heritage Trail Guide" and its accompanying app, and "The Skippers Guide: Forth and Clyde and Union Canals". I have borrowed heavily from all.
This adventure has been top of mind for some time. The boat came in at 9 am from another group of renters and needs cleaning before our group can come on board and get our orientation. Fortunately, there is lots to do at the site as we are there early and need some distraction as we don't finally leave until 3 in the afternoon.
David teaches us how to manage a narrow canal boat and how to go forward, backwards and dock; how to get through locks and under bridges that need to swing out or be raised; how to turn around and getting through the Falkirk Wheel. Various functions of the boat (similar to RV'ing) are explained and rules of navigation described, like turn on your lights when going through a tunnel or the difference between a fixed or a flashing red light.
There's a list of phone numbers in case of emergency and/or how to contact the Canal Society. There is WiFi on the boat but we are the only ones with a UK SIM card for making calls and it comes in handy on several occasions.
Its a week on the water. Slow travel. Passing through historical points, farmland and small villages. Long time friends Judy and Dick are aboard and with their long time friends Melinda and Bruce (from my home town), whom we don't know.
Here she is The Scotch Mist:
Paul and I sleep in the back bunks, Judy and Dick in the middle with the double bed and Melinda and Bruce have to make up and take down their bed every day in the dinette. Note that bathroom doors left open at night provide bedroom privacy.
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| Listening intently while David does orientation |
The plan is to go towards Edinburgh for a couple of days, then turn around and head towards Glasgow as far as we can get before turning around and heading back to Falkirk. The idea is not to run all of the time but to get out and see some sights along the way and enjoy some pub or restaurant dinners. Bruce is deemed Captain as he has the most boating experience. The idea is that each of us who wants to will take turns at the tiller throughout the week.
Unlike in some other countries, boat crews here do not operate any of the locks. Our responsibility is to contact the Scottish Canal Society 24 hours ahead of time with an ETA and they send staff and/or volunteers out to the appropriate lock or lift bridge at the appropriate time and let us through. This mostly worked.
Our key resource that is spread out on the dinette table every day is The Skippers Guide: Forth and Clyde and Union Canals. It is chock full of information marking every turn-around place, lock, bridge and lift-bridge; where there is freshwater we can take on, marinas, garbage drop, toilets and showers in marinas (that we have a key for); boat repair and services shops; tourist information, ATMs, grocery stores, nearby pubs, restaurants and points of interest; black tank pump-out facilities (which we don't need) and so much more. You can also use it to determine distances and times to various points.
Our average speed is to be 4 mph; 2 mph when passing other boats and at times the map directs us to go dead slow. To calculate travel time and distance we can take 3 mph then add 15 minutes for each lock or bridge that lifts or swings.
The Scotch Mist departs with a full tank of diesel and we will not have to fuel up during the week. Like a rental car, we must top up on our return and pay for the fuel. Fortunately, a down-payment has already been made towards the top-up. Then there's the cost of the $25 pass for the boat to support the Canal Society.
Our boat is the second-longest that can go on the canals. When between locks and they are closed, the gates almost touch the bow and the stern. The seventy-foot boats have to be in at an angle.
The first big excitement is going through the Falkirk Wheel. The Wheel itself is an attraction. The wheel lifts boats from the Forth and Clyde Canal, 24 meters into the air to the Union Canal, so that boats can go across Scotland between Edinburgh and Glasgow. There are tour boats that simply take people on the wheel to the Union Canal, then turn around and come back again.
Here is an excellent little video that combines diagrams with explanation and video segments to explain how the Falkirk Wheel works:
On our way:
Like the arc - two by two into the tub of the wheel, so the tour boat goes first ahead of us:
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| In the first lock, approaching the Wheel |
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| Through the first lock, now approaching the wheel |
Then we pull alongside the tour boat in the tub of the wheel:
Today is exceptionally windy, especially high up on the wheel, so directions are given to manage this condition. First, it's east to the Union Canal towards Edinburgh. For those interested, here is one of two pages from the Skipper's Guide for sailing the Union Canal: Skipper's Guide: Union Canal, Scotland
The Union Canal opened in 1822 was constructed to bring coal from Falkirk to Edinburgh.
At that time, boats laden with coal, minerals and other commercial items were pulled by heavy horses walking towpaths beside the canals (see blog post on Falkirk re the Kelpies). Here is an old photo:
Twenty-two years later the Edinburgh - Glasgow Railway opened spelling the death of the canal which closed to commercial traffic in 1933 and officially closed in 1963. In 2002 it was revived with an £84.5 Millennium Link Project when the Falkirk Wheel connected it to the Forth and Clyde Canal and is now widely used for tourist traffic.
Immediately after the Wheel, there are two locks to get through, with a little help from the Canal Society:
Next, we pass under Bridge 62, Walker's Bridge which is the last of the original stone bridges along the Union Canal.
Then there's the Falkirk Tunnel, (the longest canal tunnel to be built in Scotland) wide enough for one-way traffic only. The tunnel was created 200 years ago. Its 630 meters long, 18' wide and 19' high. The photos didn't pick it up, but the tunnel lights are quite colourful. We get the green light to proceed into its depths and remember to turn on our lights.
Shortly after the tunnel is Bridge 61, AKA the Laughin' and Greetin' Bridge. The Greetin' side faces west and is the more sombre side reflecting the hard work on the Falkirk section of the canal, blasting through a hillside and building a flight of 11 locks to join up with the Forth and Clyde Canal; whereas the Laughin' side smiles towards the east, which was much easier work.
There are so many gorgeous bridges to pass under, its hard to not photograph them all.
The boat is so quiet, our passage does nothing to ruffle the feathers of the many swan families on the canal. They are in no hurry to get out of our way with their young.
After two hours the first stop is at a big grocery store to stock up on supplies. That's a bit of a crazy time as we decide meals on the fly in the aisles and from time to time, like cats who don't want to be herded, we all disperse in different directions and on our own foodie whims. Eventually, we head back to the boat and it takes all of us, both arms full to lug the supplies back to the boat.
The first overnight is at Causewayend Bridge (AKA: Bridge 49) near Linlithgow, a mere nine miles from Falkirk. Other boat skippers make the same decision.
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| Note paved towpath. One could walk or cycle from Edinburgh to Glasgow |
The Cafe here is closed but all head off for some exercise. First, there's a harbour with a live-aboard community.
Then we explore this country path that leads to a boardwalk along the Avon River and under the Avon Aquaduct:
In the morning the plan is to take the boat over top of the Aquaduct:
We go as far as the Linlithgow Canal Centre. Here there's a tap for taking on water and time to walk around this lovely town.
At the dock, Dudley who was the cat of a beloved resident here is the official greeter.
Behind Dudley is Learmonth Gardens filled with flower beds and a Pigeon Palace (or dovecote/doocot)
This dovecote is made of rubble stone walls, three-and-a-half feet thick, with three rat courses outside, 370 pigeon nest holes, and 18 circular tiers. The birds were fattened on grain, then they were eaten in the winter as one of the few sources of available protein. The pigeon manure was used both as fertilizer and in the manufacture of gunpowder.
Across the canal from Dudley is a small maritime museum outside of which is moored this pretty little steam launch.
The curious name of the Black Bitch pub (who turns out to be a dog) draws us to seek it out, but it's not yet open for the day.
The Linlithgow Palace is a short walk from the dock. First, we come to the church and are invited to participate in a morning service, but decline.
Part of the palace
This little home on the palace grounds looks very inviting.
Linlithgow was home to the St. Magdalene Distillery with its pagoda-shaped roof. The pagoda ventilators helped to draw the air up through the barley lying in the kiln. It was founded in 1798 and closed in 1983.
In times past Linlithgow was one of three places on the canal for the payment and collection of dues for trade on the canal.
Back to the boat then to motor to Ratho Bridge to moor for the night.
On the way, we pass Niddry Castle, built in 1500 by Lord Seton. Mary Queen of Scots stayed here in 1568 after her escape from captivity in Loch Leven Castle.
Stone from Ratho was used to edge the canal. At the peak of trade, Ratho was a boom town with its own distillery and 14 pubs.
"Stories say that it was possible for bargemen to enter a door on one side of the bar, get a drink and leave from the other side so that they could catch up with their horse as it continued along the towpath."
Ratho has the lovely Bridge Inn ...
... and a large marina
After spending the night at Ratho the boat is turned around to head back up (on day 3) the Union Canal from whence we came, overnighting again at the familiar Bridge 49.
During the trip, there were days of sun/cloud, cool and days of pouring rain. Writing this so much later I don't remember what weather on which days ... but here's the two of us taking turns at the tiller in a variety of weather:
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| I was only on the tiller for 15 -20 minutes, no docking, no locks, no bridges |
Here we are, waiting our turn to go back into the water bin of the Falkirk Wheel, then into the Forth & Clyde Canal towards Glasgow. The Forth & Clyde route crosses through the narrowest part of Scotland
On our first night here, communication messed up. I think we did not give a full 24-hour notice for the lift bridge and the Canal Society did not return our calls for more than half a day until we got ABC Boat Hire to contact them. We become quite insistent that they remember we need early morning help to get through several locks the next day. No problem.
So rather than overnighting on the far side of the Bonnybridge Lifting Bridge we were stuck on the near side (only 4 km from Falkirk), going nowhere and killing time. There was an expensive pub near where we docked, but we walked into town for dinner instead.
Melinda and Bruce are great walkers and they head off to find explore the Antonine Wall, the most northerly and most complex frontier the Romans ever built.
Bonnybridge is interesting to explore and there's a great place to eat. Two couples take advantage of a special offer: two steak, potato and veg meals plus a free bottle of wine, for a great price. Paul and I haven't had a steak dinner for about two years as steak in Mexico are not good and it's too expensive during travel. I spend the next day in my bunk - not well. I think it was too rich for my system after all this time.
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| Through the Bonnybridge Lift Bridge at last then to the locks |
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| I think this is or was a lock-keepers home at Lock 18 - so pretty |
Our next overnight is at Auchinstarry Marina at Kilsyth. No photos from here. The photo credit below goes to Jim Wilson on the Red Bubble website. No copyright infringement intended:
There seems to be quite a few people living aboard their boats here. This is through the window of one home:
There's a pub here to pass some time and a little art gallery called the Port Gallery. The owner is a delight to talk to. We need to restrain her from calling supervisors at the Canal Society. She is upset that our group had to waste a day not travelling.
The next day is our last turnaround point near Hungryside Bridge at Kirkintilloch (the name means: Fort at the head of the Hill) before heading back to Falkirk and the end of this journey:
On the way, the Canal folk kindly open the Hillhead Swing Bridge for us. Erected in 1938
and built by the famous Sir William Arrol & Co. Ltd, it's still in working order.
At the turn around point:
After docking and settling in we discover that Kirkintilloch is a great little village to walk around. The canal and the railway helped this village become an important transportation hub and inland port. It was a production center for iron, coal, nickel and the building of small ships.
The boat rentals are generally Saturday to Saturday and while we didn't pass or follow or lead many boats during the week, there is quite a bit of traffic heading back on Friday with 3 and 5 boat line-ups to go through locks and swing or lift bridges.
This Friday was cool and rainy. As the boat passes through the last lock before Falkirk, Paul is on tiller and I'm on the bow. The Canal worker helping us through speaks to me saying he loves the skipper's (Canal Inn) toque. So as the lock is filling up I run into our berth, drag out my toque and gift it to him. He is so happy he does a little dance and can't say thank you enough. When we get off the boat shortly after we see him at the Canal Inn wearing the toque. He lives nearby and calls the Inn his 'office'. He has always wanted a toque and is so pleased to have it.
For our last night, we moor up near Lock 16 and have dinner at an Inn.
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| A perfect end to a good trip |
There were many pluses on this trip: the pleasure of cruising slowly through little villages and the countryside; time to enjoy each other's company and shared meals; learning of the history of the area. Paul and I were somewhat disappointed that we did not get all the way to Edinburgh and all the way to Glasgow. It seems like we were given very conservative motoring advice and that we could have gone greater distances while still tying up to explore places and enjoy some dinners out. Only on our return were we told that we could have personalized our journey by adding, say another three days to the trip. Overall it was good and we would recommend it to others.
Random Photos from the Journey
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| Judy getting us organized |
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| One of several stone chairs on a section of the canal |
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| A chair for a child in this Turkish barbershop |
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| Another stone bridge combining form and function with beauty |
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| An aqua duct off in the distance |
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| Swan taking flight - perhaps distracting us from a nest |
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| Taking on water |
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| These kind folks help with one of the lock gates on our route |
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| Sunshine on My Tiller Today |
Go here to hear Ian McMillan read his wonderful poem called CANAL LIFE. Below are the words:
The canal tells you stories
The canal sings you songs
They hang in that space
Between memory and water
Once saw a narrowboat raised up,
Like it was cutting through the air,
Between two grass walls and the road below
Like it was sliding through history,
And a tiny vole swam across the water
So a tiny vole swam through history.
The canal tells you stories
The canal sings you songs
Once saw a man floating belly up in a canal
Like he was in the bath. He shouted
‘This is the life’ as I passed by on a narrowboat;
The sky was reflected in the surface
And we tied up in the places the map never showed us,
The man floating by, making ripples on the surface.
They hang in that space
Between memory and water
Once got waved at by a jogger as I stood gongoozling
On the towpath; her running gave rhythm
To the early afternoon, dog-strollers and kids
Who’d rather be here than sitting in school.
To gongoozle is to stand and watch narrowboats pass
And a canal is a lesson, a water-based school.
The canal tells you stories
The canal sings you songs
Once these canals were information highways
If coal and iron can be information,
And I think they can be. And there are bridges,
Pub gardens, the laughter of children
As they walk by the water; and the canals
Turn us all into curious children.
They hang in that space
Between memory and water
Once is never enough for a canal, I reckon;
You need to go back and see it again,
And sail it again, and smell it again, and
Touch it again; canals run through our veins
Like they stroll through this country
Like blood through our veins.
The canal tells you stories
The canal sings you songs
They hang in that space
Between memory and water
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