What should have been a pleasant four-hour bus ride from Phnom Penh to Kep turned into a much longer, jarring, dusty marathon. The first chore was to get out of Phnom Penh. At one point our very patient driver had to get out and chat with a traffic policeman before we finally got through the gridlock.
Then miles and miles and miles of what should have been highway but was
bumpy, dirty gravel. The bus was supposed to make one stop on the way. Our driver made three for food, drink and bathroom breaks as we all needed it.
Then miles and miles and miles of what should have been highway but was
On the bus, we meet a British couple, younger than us, with grown children and grandchildren who, like us, sold all their possessions and are travelling until they don't want to anymore. We aren't so weird after all.
We've booked a hostel a bit out of town in the jungle as it has bicycle and scooter rentals. The cost for a private room is $6 USD/night. The managers of the Khmer House Hostel are lovely. There is a connection with a waterfront restaurant near the Crab Market and staff work long hours going back and forth between the two places.
The hostel dog "Lucky" is a character. He was badly chewed up by some dogs in the neighbourhood when he was young, leaving him with permanent spinal damage. He walks sideways like a crab, with his head often going in the opposite direction from his body and all four legs seem to go in different directions at the same time. He's very lovable and manages to get up and down open stairs to the top floor that are steep enough to be called a ladder. He loves scratches on his left side as that back leg really can't do the job when there's an itch.
Our room here is big, as is the bed and mosquito netting. The cold shower takes some getting used to even in 33-degree weather. Three tasty meals a day can be purchased on-site and a variety of fresh juices, shakes, pops and beer are available.
Creatures here seem BIG. There's a gecko that's about 9 inches long and big around. We didn't know geckos grew that big. Another photo shows a millipede type creature that is 4 to 5" long. I try to get my shoe beside it for perspective but it's moving too fast. There's a spider that's the size of the palm of my hand and a beetle that falls on the pool table one evening and competes with the pool balls for size. We are told that the spiders don't bite. Hmmm...
On our first full day, we rent a bicycle. Kep is easy to bike. In addition to the two vehicle lanes in one direction, there is the wide lane on the right used by slower moving vehicles such as tuk-tuks and bicycles. Downtown is a bit more crowded but the maneuverability of the bike is an advantage.
On the weekends the waterfront is very crowded. People from nearby Kampot which is inland come to enjoy the beach. We admire the commerce here. Local people get there early and take over bits of the public roadway as their personal parking lot and charge vehicles to park; others bring down plastic mats and hammocks to take over sidewalks and any land between the beach and the sidewalk to rent that space. It works. Everyone is comfortable and happy.
On our first full day, we rent a bicycle. Kep is easy to bike. In addition to the two vehicle lanes in one direction, there is the wide lane on the right used by slower moving vehicles such as tuk-tuks and bicycles. Downtown is a bit more crowded but the maneuverability of the bike is an advantage.
On the weekends the waterfront is very crowded. People from nearby Kampot which is inland come to enjoy the beach. We admire the commerce here. Local people get there early and take over bits of the public roadway as their personal parking lot and charge vehicles to park; others bring down plastic mats and hammocks to take over sidewalks and any land between the beach and the sidewalk to rent that space. It works. Everyone is comfortable and happy.
Monks come to enjoy the beach on the weekend too.
A small group of older women dressed in T-shirts and Capri length pants make room for us on the sea wall. Giggling like school girls they discreetly remove their bras, hold hands and head into the water fully dressed.
We don't go in as the water seems dirty to us. From some smells and the colour of some of the sand, we imagine that hotels across the road have grey tanks that run into the sea and there doesn't seem to be a big tidal "flush" here.
This is the famous Kep crab statue at sunset, followed by the sunset sky:
A guess is that this statue is from the communist era:
A typical lunch at the bustling Crab market is a "seafood lollipop", hot off the BBQ and served with the famous Kampot pepper sauce. We always choose prawns, squid or octopus. A variety of fish, including stingray and even chicken, are also served up this way.
The crab market is open-sided stalls with low slung tarps overhead that trap the heat and smoke from the charcoal BBQs and the heat from the sun too. I don't know how the workers do it.
Photos from the edge of the Crab Market and from the waterside:
Sitting on one of the benches pictured above we watch the fishers in a small boat cast, then haul up a net that looks so heavy it could capsize the small boat.
Then we see two different men wade into the sea with lightweight but long nets that they feed out by hand and that float in place with plastic bottles. Then they beat the water near the net with long bamboo poles and a resounding smack, presumably to scare something into the net. Neither man caught anything.
Scooter rentals are also available from the Hostel and are in good condition. We rent for three days. Our first time on two wheels since selling everything we owned three years ago ... YIPPEE!
Then we see two different men wade into the sea with lightweight but long nets that they feed out by hand and that float in place with plastic bottles. Then they beat the water near the net with long bamboo poles and a resounding smack, presumably to scare something into the net. Neither man caught anything.
Scooter rentals are also available from the Hostel and are in good condition. We rent for three days. Our first time on two wheels since selling everything we owned three years ago ... YIPPEE!
One of our first trips is to circumnavigate the 8 km ring road around Kep National Park. This is the only park in Cambodia where you can hike without a guide.
The gravel park road, if you can even call it that has such deep gullies in one place that I get off and walk behind the scooter. This is an orientation to the park for us and a chance to buy a map at ZepCafe in the park so that we can come back another day to hike.
Here are some views from the perimeter road. Its mostly so overgrown that photos are hard to take:
A resort lies just outside of the park and there is a gallery that sells products from all over SE Asia. There are lovely things:
Another crop in Cambodia to have international GI status is Kampot Speu Palm Sugar. This bottle (bottom left in collage photo above) of artisanal white rum is made from sugarcane grown on local family-owned farms, distilled and aged. It may or may not be Speu Palm but its close enough for us to buy a bottle, take it back to the hostel to share with newfound friends, mixed with the fresh pineapple juice available in the kitchen.
Another scooter day is reserved to head out to one of the famous organic Kampot Pepper farms. Pepper has been produced here for over a hundred years. There are many farms, most of which participate in the Kampot Pepper Promotion Association. Kampot pepper is another of the Cambodian crops that has the international GI Certification that was discussed in the previous blog. The red soil and climate here contribute to the unique flavour of this pepper. As with anything valuable there are copycats, so look for the international certification when buying Kampot pepper.
Another scooter day is reserved to head out to one of the famous organic Kampot Pepper farms. Pepper has been produced here for over a hundred years. There are many farms, most of which participate in the Kampot Pepper Promotion Association. Kampot pepper is another of the Cambodian crops that has the international GI Certification that was discussed in the previous blog. The red soil and climate here contribute to the unique flavour of this pepper. As with anything valuable there are copycats, so look for the international certification when buying Kampot pepper.
We choose this farm which has a free tour and we learn more than we ever thought about pepper:
The pepper plants begin producing when 3 to 4 years of age and will produce for 50 years. The tender plants prefer diffuse sunlight and are protected with palm branches along the sides of the crop and overhead with vines, sticks or bamboo.
Harvest time is March to May. This farm has just one hectare in pepper and will produce a ton of peppercorns in a season.
This is the little 'house' where the peppercorns are dried. They also dry lemongrass here as they make and sell a pepper/lemongrass tea. We are allowed in for a quick peek and the aroma of the warm pepper is intoxicating.
This is the little 'house' where the peppercorns are dried. They also dry lemongrass here as they make and sell a pepper/lemongrass tea. We are allowed in for a quick peek and the aroma of the warm pepper is intoxicating.
We learn that white pepper is best for white meats and sauces, red pepper for red meat and black pepper is good for everything.
Once the peppercorns are dry they are sorted by hand with tweezers into different sizes. I hope this woman doesn't have to do the entire ton!
In the photo to the right is a pedal-powered pump.
Here's an easy way to spice up your vodka or gin: Take 500 grams of red peppercorns and drop them into a one-litre bottle of your preferred product. In two weeks remove the peppercorns and enjoy!
The best part is that those peppercorns can be used one more time. Repeat the above process but leave the pepper in for 3 weeks the second time around.
The best part is that those peppercorns can be used one more time. Repeat the above process but leave the pepper in for 3 weeks the second time around.
There are so many types of pepper sauces here that we did not try them all. One of our favourites is this simple black pepper sauce and it is used with almost anything. We've had it mostly as a dip.
Of course there is pepper tasting where we chew up different colours of dried peppercorns while learning about each, and a store to make purchases.
One of our favourites is fresh peppercorns. The fresh ones need to be preserved, so a small amount of salt is added to them. If unopened they will last a year in the vacuum-sealed packet, but once open they must be kept in the fridge and eaten within a week. These we buy with the intention of adding them to peanuts as a zesty snack with beer.
One of our favourites is fresh peppercorns. The fresh ones need to be preserved, so a small amount of salt is added to them. If unopened they will last a year in the vacuum-sealed packet, but once open they must be kept in the fridge and eaten within a week. These we buy with the intention of adding them to peanuts as a zesty snack with beer.
On the way out we admire this solar panel stove/oven. Here its boiling water.
We also scoot past a Salt Community. It appears that there is no salt harvest at this time. I believe the season starts very soon. There is another salt harvesting place closer to Kampot.
We ride out to see some caves. The caves really aren't much compared to what we saw three years ago in Vietnam, but the countryside is lovely. The rice fields are such a brilliant green with the karst mountains as a perfect backdrop. People wave and shout hi from their homes. The roads have huge potholes, lumps, bumps and washouts. We get lost. But it's a lovely day in all.
Our next move is to Kampot town, so we scoot up there one day to look around and stumble on a happening place called KAMA. One of the owners is a local artist and is getting ready in a few hours to open her very own art gallery. Some tourists and ex-pats are volunteering and fill us in on the local hot spots. Music seems to happen at KAMA and we hear of Fish Island, Java Blue and The Playground as places to check out when we are there.
This furniture seller has quite a load. The very solid furniture must be heavy. A close up shows how lovely it is. The headboards are all carved.
So, its into the park for a hike. We decide to head away from the perimeter and go on one of the trails that cuts about 2 km off of the perimeter route. This trail is about a km, but it's pretty straight up and down and there are roots and slippery leaves to trip and slide on. Climbing over fallen trees is necessary. We are tired when we finally come out on the other side and know that we'll feel it tomorrow. A couple on the perimeter when we took off were at the place where we came out ... so we saved distance, but not time as the trail was tough going.
We do not get to the main interior trail but will keep the map in case we return from Kampot one day to hike once again.
Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island
I search for a whimsical story about floppy ears and hopping creatures to learn the reason behind the naming of this place but can find none. There may never have been a rabbit on the island.
This is my chosen place for a peaceful overnight to celebrate my 65th. birthday and a good choice it was.
A typical ferry. Cost $8 USD 1-way
Paul found and booked a place with little rustic cabins at one end of the main beach.
There is no WiFi here. Electricity is from 18:00 to 22:00 hours when the generator is turned on. No hot showers. Gravity flush toilets with a bucket of water.
The sea is crystal clear and a perfect temperature with a sandy bottom.
No loud music (yay). Fresh seafood is kept in these floating net buckets until the chef is ready:
These pretty trees look like giant yucca that are growing pineapples. A server says they are not eaten as a fruit but the local people prepare medicine from them to ease upset stomachs.
A coconut oil massage on the beach is a must:
The sunsets are stunning:
There may be a path to walk around the island. We're not sure and don't feel like exploring. We are told that there a couple of small beaches used mostly by local people and thus are heaped with garbage. It's an unfortunate thing in this country that drink containers or whatever simply fall from hands, wherever.
The sanitary infrastructure is not well-developed. I see a couple of signs urging viewers to toss their garbage into containers but looking around, there are no trash bins. In other places, we pick up trash that is thrown all around but not in the bins.
We were very surprised that prices on the island are the same as on the mainland. Very unusual. The hospitality is wonderful; the beer as cold and the selection of both fruit juices and wine as good or better.
It was hard to leave the island but now we're off to Kampot for our last week in this country we like so much.
Our next move is to Kampot town, so we scoot up there one day to look around and stumble on a happening place called KAMA. One of the owners is a local artist and is getting ready in a few hours to open her very own art gallery. Some tourists and ex-pats are volunteering and fill us in on the local hot spots. Music seems to happen at KAMA and we hear of Fish Island, Java Blue and The Playground as places to check out when we are there.
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| Just missed this festival but more music coming |
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| Street art in Kampot |
This furniture seller has quite a load. The very solid furniture must be heavy. A close up shows how lovely it is. The headboards are all carved.
So, its into the park for a hike. We decide to head away from the perimeter and go on one of the trails that cuts about 2 km off of the perimeter route. This trail is about a km, but it's pretty straight up and down and there are roots and slippery leaves to trip and slide on. Climbing over fallen trees is necessary. We are tired when we finally come out on the other side and know that we'll feel it tomorrow. A couple on the perimeter when we took off were at the place where we came out ... so we saved distance, but not time as the trail was tough going.
We do not get to the main interior trail but will keep the map in case we return from Kampot one day to hike once again.
Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island
I search for a whimsical story about floppy ears and hopping creatures to learn the reason behind the naming of this place but can find none. There may never have been a rabbit on the island.
This is my chosen place for a peaceful overnight to celebrate my 65th. birthday and a good choice it was.
Paul found and booked a place with little rustic cabins at one end of the main beach.
There is no WiFi here. Electricity is from 18:00 to 22:00 hours when the generator is turned on. No hot showers. Gravity flush toilets with a bucket of water.
The sea is crystal clear and a perfect temperature with a sandy bottom.
No loud music (yay). Fresh seafood is kept in these floating net buckets until the chef is ready:
These pretty trees look like giant yucca that are growing pineapples. A server says they are not eaten as a fruit but the local people prepare medicine from them to ease upset stomachs.
A coconut oil massage on the beach is a must:
The sunsets are stunning:
There may be a path to walk around the island. We're not sure and don't feel like exploring. We are told that there a couple of small beaches used mostly by local people and thus are heaped with garbage. It's an unfortunate thing in this country that drink containers or whatever simply fall from hands, wherever.
The sanitary infrastructure is not well-developed. I see a couple of signs urging viewers to toss their garbage into containers but looking around, there are no trash bins. In other places, we pick up trash that is thrown all around but not in the bins.
We were very surprised that prices on the island are the same as on the mainland. Very unusual. The hospitality is wonderful; the beer as cold and the selection of both fruit juices and wine as good or better.
It was hard to leave the island but now we're off to Kampot for our last week in this country we like so much.
Random Photos from Kep and Rabbit Island
We see these pod-shaped boats at the pepper farm and at the art gallery, but can find no information on them
Near the end of our stay, we cross the highway out by the hostel and there is a footpath to the sea. Here the water is much cleaner than in town, but unfortunately, the beach is littered with garbage.
Someone with our same initials was here before us and left a message in the sand:
Someone with our same initials was here before us and left a message in the sand:
