EVORA: Old Town; Fortification Walls; D'em Bones; Castle in a Village on a Hill

Old Evora Hostel in Old Town is older than Canada!  Pedro who checks us in is up for a long discussion on Portuguese politics.  People here love their country and love talking politics!!  Then it's a short walk to the main square and Chaupana, an authentic Portuguese restaurant recommended by Pedro.   After a yummy appy of black-eyed beans, tuna and onion marinated with olive oil, lemon juice and garlic, served with hearty home-made bread we share a dish recommended by the waiter - a broth with big chunks of pork and (more) bread.  I think it was eaten in the winter ... very filling.  Wandering old town helps to walk it off, but the discovery of an incredible pastry shop defeats the walking.

Evora in the heart of Alentejo province has an old town completely surrounded by a fortified wall.  From our first steps here we are charmed by all that is ancient, the wonderful public spaces and the diversity of the people and the eateries.

From a short walk along the outside of the wall

Flowers in a public square glow in the sunlight

The Roman Temple of Evora (AKA Temple of Diana)

The aqueduct of ancient Evora provided drinking water to the citizens from a river 9 km away.

Books in many languages, including English

Pretty yard of a restaurant, not yet open

Marble resting place in the main square

On our way to the Royal Church of Sao Francisco and the Chapel of Bones, we spy a Museum of Design and head in.  Design in everyday objects from the recent past is show-cased.  Everything from alarm clocks, radios, TVs, kitchen appliances, pens and more.

The collage above includes a carved wood suitcase; a copper electric space heater; a cork bowl with lid; woven grass saddlebags for a donkey; space heater and hairdryer; a cork rocking horse; and a leather boot for a horse hoof.

Sao Francisco Church

The first Franciscans arrived in Evora in 1224.  The church we see today was constructed over the old church at the order of the king, to provide beauty in keeping with a royal palace.

The gold leaf inside is overwhelming

The church had an art gallery of pieces recovered after looting and is known for its Chapel of Bones

Nos ossos que aqui estamoss pelos vossos esperamos                                                                          ("We bones you see in this poor state for you and yours do sit and wait".)

A poem in the Chapel of Bones

Tile work at the entrance to Bone Chapel

A poem in Chapel of Bones

The Church also has a collection of nativity scenes from around the world, from ancient times to modern.

An hour-and-a-half ride and two buses take us to the hilltop village of Monsaraz  - Population 40 - for the afternoon.  On the way we pass sheep lazing in olive groves, more vineyards than imagination can conjure, small cattle farms, little villages and several kilometres of cork trees on both sides of the road, peeled and numbered.

A bit blurry at 80 km/hr

We can see our destination long before we get to it

The views of the lake from outside the village walls are breath-taking.

Inside the gates are some of the narrowest lanes we have seen.

Along the way, we spot a fellow with a Tofino T-shirt and engage him and his partner in conversation.  Later we are enjoying wine, olives and bread outside a tiny taverna when they join us, then the friends they are travelling with arrive and when two Canadians on a bicycle tour and their guide join in, well the taverna is full and the time passes quickly.

It's a long day and we're hungry so a quick stop at the local sushi bar for take-out.  We have never seen so many kinds of sushi in one place.  For 6.50  Euro (shared), it's almost more than we can eat.

The last day is another hour bus trip out of town to the city of Vila Vicosa to see the King's Palace.  On the way this time, in addition to sheep, olives, etc there is a barrel-making factory and we are in a region of Portugal known for its marble, which is shipped worldwide.

Our journey today was to see the King's Palace (or House of Braganza). Portugal was a kingdom from 1139 to 1910.  After the October 1910 Revolution, Portugal became a Republic.  The last king was exiled to England where he lived for 22 years until his death.

Unfortunately, photos cannot be taken inside the King's Palace.  A search on the Internet finds very few interior photos.  Most of the ceilings are painted, hand-carved furniture is mind-blowing, silk on the walls, and a kitchen to die for.  Today it takes many women every month just to polish the copper  (with fine sand and lemon juice) in the kitchen.  Here are a couple of photos from the 'net':

Photo Credit to Pinterest

Photo Credit to the London Traveller

Here are a couple of photos from the outside of the King's Palace.  There are beautiful gardens but visitors are not allowed into them.

A walk around the castle is peaceful with the sound of birds filling the air.

Inside the castle walls is a huge cemetery.  Almost all of the grave markers are marble...the ones that aren't are just mounds of earth.  

Marble is used in construction throughout the town and this is what they do with the left-over chunks of marble:

The scent is heavenly wandering around this town.  The main avenue is very wide.  Down each sidewalk and the 2 centre medians for vehicles are rows of orange trees.  These trees are partly bearing fruit and partly in blossom.  

The concession in this park is a welcome respite from walking.  Time for ice cream!  Local people are meeting their friends here.

Tomorrow on to Lisbon.