Mallorca - the Shangri-la of Spain

Five days on this island paradise is too few, even with a car.  A minimum of two to three weeks would allow for more in-depth experiences and participation in active exploration.  Two or three months would be heaven.

Mallorca has something for everyone.  There are many beautiful beaches for the sun-loving crowd.  Never have we seen so many people road-biking from town to town.  The variety of topography offers cycling for a range of skills.  There's swimming, snorkelling, scuba diving, sailing and other water sports.  Hiking is popular as is rock-climbing the sandstone mountains.  The same sandstone is carved into caves and sea caves that await exploration.

In the mountainous areas in the north and west of Mallorca, we see dramatic cliffs that drop sharply to the sea, palms and cacti growing alongside pine trees, terraced rocky slopes for olive trees.  The flat plains in the centre of the island support orange, lemon and almond trees, some vineyards and vegetable farming.  Today we saw geraniums blooming on bushes as big as forsythia back in Canada.

A lemon tree in your yard is like having your own personal sun

Sangria on the beach is a close 2nd to having your own lemon tree

The joy of a car is the ability to go anywhere on a whim...the drawback is that there is NOT ONE spare parking spot anywhere on this island.  We can't imagine in the summer.  We sometimes had to park a kilometre away from an Airbnb where we were staying...and we did get one (only 1) warning parking ticket.

We have to thank Diego for all his great suggestions for what to see and do and where to eat in this place he is lucky enough to call home.  Due to time shortages, we were not able to do everything.

Here was our pre-conceived idea of where to go.  In reality, we were able to sneak in several more towns by stopping on our way from here to there.

Our first stops are on the west coast: Valldemossa, Deia, Soller, Puerto Soller and Fornalutx, with an overnight in Soller.  This entire area is a haven for hikers.  The honey-coloured stone homes with their typical green Mallorcan shutters are a beautiful accent to the stunning natural scenery with its vibrant colours.

Valldemossa is a shopper's dream with lovely boutique shops lining many streets.  Frederick Chopin and his lover spent a winter here in Real Cartuja the Carthusian monastery hoping the climate would improve his TB.

Deia is the millionaire's hideaway, with huge villas isolated on steep slopes and hidden by olive trees. Robert Graves came here first with a mistress, then later with a wife.  His muses and other artists followed.  Today it is still known as an artist's colony and Deia's population is fifty percent foreigners.

 

On the way to Valldemosa and Deia

Graveyard at Deia

Puerto Soller is a pretty little town on the beach, like so many in Mallorca.  The afternoon is sunny and warm as we explore the narrow, winding streets, the cafes, shops and Maritime Museum.

The port at Puerto Soller

Beach at Puerto Soller

On the beach at Puerto Soller

Outside the Maritime Museum at Puerto Soller

Maritime Museum Puerto Soller

Soller's old town is a treat to stroll and the vintage tram between Soller and Puerto Soller is a trip into the past.  This town, like the others, is immaculate and beautiful.  Our Airbnb is in the heart of old town

Random Photos from Soller

Then we move on to Port de Pollenca and, Pollenca, overnighting in a great little hostel run by a British father and son team in Port de Pollenca.  To give a unique feel to the common spaces and the rooms, much of the decor is from Istanbul.  Besides they have a huge art collection from all over, with many different subjects.  Rooms, common spaces and hallways are filled with art.

Port de Pollenca has miles of perfect beaches, lined by a beautiful promenade. The relatively flat terrain means elderly ex-pat cyclists can still get out there.  This town especially seems to attract ex-pats and tourists from Great Britain.  On a final walk before leaving we discover the amazing Wednesday market.  Here too we see the traditional Mallorcan fishing boats, the Llaut, now used more for pleasure than working.  We don't see any with their sails up.  Most now seem to use engines only.

There's a fellow here who builds sandcastles for spare change

Fornalutx fancies itself the prettiest village in Mallorca, and it may well be.  Climbing up and down steps and exploring narrow streets one finds flowers that adorn almost every home.

Pollenca - Early steps bring us to the old cloister of the Dominicans, now a converted art gallery.  Today's exhibition is of photography.  This photographer from Pollensa had one of the first cameras.  While there are many photos of early Pollensa, his favourite theme was people and families.  His work gifts us with what the time was like for people.  Very interesting.

Deciding we need more exercise before lunch we head up to the pretty little Iglesia del Calvari at the top of a hill.

Heading south and on the east coast, we stop in Alcudia and Cala Ratjada on our way to overnight in Porto Cristo.

Alcudia is a lunch stop with time to walk the Malecon along another beautiful beach.  This one has some colourful characters.

Cala Ratjada is another beautiful beach resort town.  There are golden sand beaches and pretty coves.  Today its still a working fishing port.  We don't have time to do the popular hike to the lighthouse at  Punta de Capdepera.

On the way to Calla Ratjada

Our third overnight is in the beautiful apartment of a lovely young couple and their three dogs who make us feel like we live there.  The apartment is one block from the long promenade that extends beyond the small beach to where all the boats are moored.  The other end of the promenade is defined by a sandstone cave with benches to catch the afternoon sun.  In the morning our hostess, originally from Venezuela makes us a traditional breakfast from her country.  I hope to be able to duplicate it when back in Mexico.

Five minutes out of Porto Cristo are the famous Cuevas del Drach (or Drach Caves).  We like caves and have been to several magnificent ones in the USA and in Vietnam.  This one starts out rather ho-hum, then becomes more spectacular the further in we go.  It's fascinating to be in a place that's barely illuminated and to see pools of water that are startlingly blue and where the stalactite's stare at their own reflection in the pools.  These are the waters of the large, underground Lake Martel.  But the best is yet to come.

Reflections

We are led into a large cavern filled with bleachers.  Everyone sits, lights go down and there is total silence in the black of the cave.  Gently, the entrance to the cave is illuminated with a warm glow, then in the distance the sounds of piano, violin and other instruments.  A boat with LED rope on its gunnel is silently rowed in and the musicians are on-board.  Two other similarly illuminated boats are rowed in to glide along with the musicians.  The boat with the musicians settles into a place in the cave where all can see, and they play for us, while the other boats have gone dark.  After a few songs, the boat slowly glides out again, the performance is over.  Wow.  What an amazing experience.  To not disturb the dark and the mood, cameras were not allowed during the performance.  Their website gives an idea of what the boats look like: Boats in Drach Caves

On the way to our final stop Palma, we pass some pleasant time in Porto Colom, named for Christopher Columbus who is rumoured to have been born here (as well as in several other places in the world).  It's another lovely beach town that profits from tourism.

Palma has the look and feel of a capital city, with grand buildings, sweeping boulevards, lots of people and much history.

Arab Baths, Palma

Courtyard of Arab Baths

Random Photos, Mallorca:

Ancient Olive Tree

Child's Vespa

Boomerang Art

It's time to leave the lovely island of Mallorca.  We didn't have time to visit the other Balearic islands ... Menorca, Ibiza or Formentera.  Now its off to get a flight to Valencia.